The Dining Scene

Vienna has a lively and changing culinary scene. The trend these days is to give traditional Austrian cuisine a lighter note. At the same time, new generations of chefs have turned to high-quality seasonal and local ingredients, coupled with the quick acceptance of new food ideas from local producers or from abroad.

The Viennese have also reaffirmed their love for traditional-style eateries, in particular Beisln (bistro pubs); these are augmented by a wide range of stylish restaurant-bars with design tones and well-prepared international cuisine to complement Austrian favourites like Wiener Schnitzel or goulash. Today, eating out in Vienna therefore often means being able to enjoy the best of both worlds – traditional as well as contemporary dining, with many places crossing effortlessly between the two.

Many Viennese restaurants serve the goat’s cheeses and buffalo mozzarella of Robert Paget, who produces his cheeses in the Kamptal (Kamp Valley; a side valley of the Danube) for the Viennese table. Snails also crop up regularly: Vienna once had a thriving snail industry, which today has been revived on the edge of town by Andreas Gugumuck at Wiener Schnecke (www.wienerschnecke.at; tour €10). Gugumuck integrates locally produced Suppengrün (soup vege­tables such as turnips, carrots, leek and herbs) into his own snail production. Local soup vegetables as well as Gugumuck’s snails (and even the caviar produced by snails) are often served in top-flight restaurants. Mangalitza ham available at Urbanek (Click here), hams by Thum Schinkenmanufaktur (http://thum-schinken.at) and beef from the Waldviertel region north of the Danube River are other local specialities featuring in a trend towards using fresh, high-quality ingredients produced locally. Much of this can be found at Vienna’s Naschmarkt market. Beisln such as Silberwirt (Click here) or Hollmann Salon (Click here) are indicative of how Beisln are helping to lead this trend.

Street Food & Markets

The humble Wurst (sausage) is sold in up to a dozen varieties at stands throughout the city. It comes with a bread roll or chunk of bread, weighed down with Senf (sweet or hot mustard). As well as Bratwurst (fried sausage), consider Burenwurst (the boiled equivalent), Debreziner (spicy), or Käsekrainer (infused with cheese) – for some a culinary obscenity, for others a religion.

The largest and best-known of all markets is Naschmarkt (Click here), which as well as having produce of all kinds is overflowing with food stalls; many of these are fully fledged restaurants. Other very good markets are Brunnenmarkt (Click here), leading to Yppenplatz in Ottakring, and Karmelitermarkt (Click here), east of the Danube Canal.

Beisln

Eat in a Beisl at least a couple of times during a visit. This unique eatery is usually a simple bistro pub featuring wood-panelling, plain tables, perhaps a ceramic oven, and hearty Viennese cuisine. Fairly recently, marginally more expensive neo- Beisln have emerged – eateries that have added a few new touches to old recipes. Revolutions have been hatched and thwarted over sweet meats in these atmospheric places.

Vegetarians & Vegans

Vegans are not well catered for in Vienna’s restaurants, and the few places that serve vegan food are low-budget alternative-style eateries. Vegetarians, however, will have no problem finding dishes based on beans and other pulses, fruit and dairy products. Some of them, such as the burger eat-in and takeaway Die Burgermacher’s (Click here) meat and meatless burgers, and dishes at the midrange Hollmann Salon (Click here), use organic ingredients. Naschmarkt and other farmers markets offer lots of choices for vegetarian picnics, takeaway or sit-down meals, and Biomarkt Maran stores have good vegetarian and organic selections of produce and packaged foodstuffs.

How to Eat & Drink Like a Local

Meals A typical breakfast for the Viennese consists of a Semmel (bread roll) with jam, ham or cheese (or all three). All but the cheapest hotels have buffets, though, with these as well as cereal, juice, eggs, right up the scale to a full English breakfast. Lunch is often the largest meal – often a lunch special (Mittagsmenü or Tagesteller) for around €7 to €11. In the evening, bread with cheese or ham and a beer or wine is usually eaten at home. Following the Viennese example is the least expensive way to eat.

Where to Eat The main choices are in a restaurant, Beisl (bistro pub), cafe or coffee house or Heuriger (wine tavern). Sausage stands abound, and Vienna also has employee canteens, such as on the top floor of the Justizpalast.

Arriving In better establishments, a waiter will greet you and take your coat before showing you to a table. Once you’re seated you’ll have the chance to order a drink right away. The waiter is unlikely to return to take your order until you’ve closed your menu. In midrange and less formal places, it’s usually fine to place your jacket over the back of your chair if you don’t want to use the cloakroom.

Eating & Toasting Before starting to eat say ‘Guten appetit!’ Before starting to drink, toast by clinking glasses while looking the person in the eye. Not to have eye contact is said to bring seven years of bad sex (you’ve been warned!). ‘ Zum Wohl ’ (to well-being) is the generic toast.

Paying the Bill Many places don’t accept credit cards. Tip 5% to 10% (or don’t bother coming back) by rounding up the bill. If several of you are eating together, you will be asked ‘Geht das zusammen oder getrennt?’ (Together or separately?). If paying separately, there’s no need to pool the money: each diner pays the waiter and tips individually.

Tipping If the bill has been presented in a folder, you can leave the tip in the folder when you depart. It’s also common to round up verbally by simply stating the amount and adding ‘danke!’ or by saying ‘das stimmt so’ (keep the change).

Visiting Heurigen

Heurigen are rustic wine taverns mostly on the outskirts of the city serving traditional food and young wine, usually in a courtyard setting. Buschenschenken are a variation on Heurigen and only exist in the countryside bordering the city. These are more like the original Heurigen , which bloomed after Joseph II decreed in 1784 that producers could sell their own wine from the vineyard without obtaining a license – open less often (usually in September).

Heuriger Food & Ordering Choose from the buffet and staff will place it on your plate. Most food is sold by the decagram (dag) in portions of 10 dag (100 grams). Typically, you find a selection of warm and cold foods, such as roast pork in one or the other variety, blood sausage, meat loaf and a range of cured meats, lard and breads, pickled vegetables and salads such as Schwarzwurzelsalat (black salsify salad) and potato salad, as well as strudel for dessert.

Heuriger Wine The most important feature of any Heuriger is the wine, traditionally made by the owner and usually only a year old. Sturm (literally ‘storm’ for its cloudy appearance, perhaps even for its chaotic effects on drinkers) is yeasty because it is still fermenting. It’s sold from around early September to the middle of October. A new vintage of bottled Heuriger wine is released each year on 11 November.

Where & When Apart from a handful of Stadt­heurigen in the city, Heurigen are concentrated in and around winegrowing regions on Vienna’s fringes. Many are only open part of the year or every other month. Double check opening times online or by calling before heading out to avoid disappointment.

Transport & Map Some Heurigen are up to 20 minutes’ walk from the public transport stop. Pick up the Verkehrslinienplan für Wien transport map (also showing streets in outer suburbs; €2.50) from any Wiener Linien service desk or use www.wienerlinien.at.

KAHLENBERG, GRINZING & DÖBLING

These three villages have a large concentration of Heurigen (especially Grinzing, where most cater to tour groups with kitsch live music and pseudo folk art beyond the pale). Those in Kahlenberg can easily be combined with a visit to the historical site on Kahlenberg proper.

For Grinzing take the U4 (or tram D) to Heiligenstadt and change to bus 38A; this continues on to Kahlenberg. You can also take tram D to the Grinzinger Strasse stop and change to the 38A there. For Döbling, take tram 38 from Schottentor.

Hirt ( 318 96 41; www.heuriger-hirt.at; 19, Eisernenhandgasse 165, Kahlenberg; 3-11pm Wed-Fri, noon-11pm Sat & Sun, closed Wed-Fri Nov-Mar; 38A Kahlenberg) Hidden among the vineyards on the eastern slopes of Kahlenberg, this is a simple Heuriger with few frills and pleasant views.

Sirbu ( 320 59 28; www.sirbu.at; Kahlenberger Strasse 210; 3-11pm Mon-Sat, mid-Apr–mid-Oct; 38A Kahlenberg) Far-reaching views across Vienna’s urban expanse from its quiet spot, and a garden that’s the perfect place on a sunny afternoon.

Reinprecht ( 320 14 71; www.heuriger-rein­­precht.at; 19, Cobenzlgasse 22; 3.30pm-midnight Mar-Oct, closed Mon-Fri Nov-Feb; 38A Grinzing) Like others in Grinzing, Reinprecht caters to the masses with its huge garden, enormous buffet and live music, but award-winning wines.

Weingut am Reisenberg ( 320 93 93; www.weingutamreisenberg.at; Oberer Reisenbergweg 15; 5pm-midnight Fri, 1pm-midnight Sat & Sun May-Sep, 6pm-midnight Wed-Sat Oct-Dec; 38A Oberer Reisenbergweg) Modern premises with huge windows and a styled, brick interior. Part of the new generation of Heurigen, with Italian cuisine and vegetarian dishes.

Zawodsky ( 320 79 78; www.zawodsky.at; 19, Reinischgasse 3, Döbling; 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 2pm Sat & Sun, closed Mon-Wed Apr & Oct-Nov; 38 An den langen Lüssen) Stripped-back set up featuring picnic tables surrounded by apple trees and vineyards, and a small selection of hot and cold meats complemented by various salads.

STREBERSDORF & STAMMERSDORF

To the north across the Danube, the neighbourhoods of Strebersdorf and Stammersdorf produce around 30% of the city’s wine, making it Vienna’s largest winegrowing district. The Heurigen here are very traditional and authentic. For Strebers­dorf, take the U6 to Floridsdorf U-Bahn station and tram 26 from there. For Stammersdorf take tram 31 from Schottenring U-Bahn station, or tram 30 from Floridsdorf U-Bahn station. Regional bus 228 also runs to Stammersdorf from Floridsdorf.

Göbel (www.weinbaugoebel.at; 21, Stammers­dorfer Kellergasse 131, Stammersdorf; 228 Senderstrasse, 30, 31 Stammersdorfer Strasse) Combines quality wines (about 80% are reds) with a sleek architectural setting. Bus 228 drops you very close; the tram runs until late. See the website for opening times.

Eckert ( 292 25 96; www.eckert.co.at; Strebers­dorfer Strasse 158; from 4pm Mon-Fri, from 3pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun, see website for dates; 32A Mühlweg, 26 Edmund-Hawranek-Platz) An eclectic cross between a traditional Heuriger and an arts centre. Paintings by local artists adorn the walls.

Weingut Schilling ( 292 41 89; www.weingut-schilling.at; 21, Langenzersdorferstrasse 54, Strebersdorf; from 2pm Mon-Fri, from 3pm Sat, from noon Sun, see website for dates; 26 Edmund-Hawranek-Platz) With the spread of vineyards rising over Bisamberg hill in full view from its large garden, Schilling attracts many on warm evenings.

Schmidt ( 292 66 88; www.heuriger-schmidt.at; 21, Stammersdorfer Strasse 105, Stammers­dorf; 3pm-midnight Thu-Sat, from 2pm Sun, see website for dates; 31 Stammersdorf) Stocks wonderful Muskateller and Grüner Veltliner wines.

Wieninger ( 292 41 06; www.heuriger-wieninger.at; 21, Stammersdorfer Strasse 78, Stammersdorf; 3pm-midnight Fri, from noon Sat & Sun mid-Jan–late Dec, also 3pm-midnight Thu early Apr-late Dec; 30A, 30, 31 Stammersdorf) Extensive buffet, fruity and light wines in a local atmosphere.

NUSSDORF

Nussdorf has a string of inviting Heurigen. Take tram D to the terminus.

Mayer am Pfarrplatz ( 370 12 87; www.pfarrplatz.at; 19, Pfarrplatz 2, Nussdorf; 4pm-midnight Mon-Sat, from noon Sun; D Nussdorf) Caters to tour groups but retains an authentic air. Beethoven lived here in 1817. There’s a children’s play area and live music from 7pm.

MAURER

A cluster of Heurigen is located southwest of the centre and easily reached by tram 60 from Hietzing U-Bahn station.

Zahel ( 889 13 18; www.zahel.at; Maurer Haupt­platz 9; 11.30am-midnight, see website for dates; 60 Maurer Hauptplatz) One of the oldest Heurigen in Vienna, Zahel occupies a 250-year-old farmhouse on Maurer Hauptplatz. The buffet is laden with Viennese and seasonal cuisine and wine is for sale to take home.

Edlmoser ( 889 86 80; www.edlmoser.at; 23, Maurer Lange Gasse, Maurer; 2.30pm-midnight, see website for dates; 60 Maurer-Lange-Gasse) Run by dynamic young winemaker Michael Edlmoser in a four-centuries-old house.

OTTAKRING

Most Heurigen to the west in Ottakring are within the city’s built-up area, but they offer excellent views and peaceful gardens.

10er Marie (16, Ottakringerstrasse 222-224; 3pm-midnight Mon-Sat; Ottakring, 2, 10, 46 Ottakring) Vienna’s oldest Heuriger, it’s family-run, rustic and attracts locals and visitors alike.

Buschenschrank Huber ( 485 81 80; http://sissi-huber.at; Roterdstrasse 5; 3pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 10, 44 Dornbach/Güpferlingstrasse) Slightly upmarket edge with a gargantuan buffet, filling a mainly older crowd with a sensational selection of salads, meats and sweets.

Buschenschrank Stippert ( 486 89 17; 16, Ottakringerstrasse 225; 3pm-midnight Wed-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun; Ottakring, 2, 10, 46 Ottakring) Blink and you’ll think you’ve time-travelled at this simple Heuriger with sassy staff and a ceramic oven in the centre of the room.

Eating by Neighbourhood

»Stephansdom & the Historic Centre Packed with options, especially around Stephansplatz and streets leading down towards the Danube Canal.

»Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt Myriad food stalls and restaurants on Naschmarkt, and lots of options in Margareten and Mariahilf districts.

»The Museum District & Neubau Some of the best eating in Vienna’s Vorstadt districts, especially in and behind MuseumsQuartier.

»Alsergrund & the University District Yppenplatz has a market and a good cluster of eateries. There are many student places close to the university campuses.

»Schloss Belvedere to the Canal One or two gems, otherwise limited options; Hauptstrasse Landstrasse has a good cluster.

»Prater & East of the Danube Most located west of Karmeliterplatz and Taborstrasse (around Karmelitermarkt), extending north towards Augarten.