Drinking & Nightlife
Vaulted wine cellars in situ since Mozart’s day and boisterous beer gardens, boho student dives and dressy cocktail bars, retro and rooftop bars – there’s nightlife to suit every mood and moment in Vienna. And in this city where history often waltzes with the cutting edge, you’ll find many centuries-old bars have been given an avant-garde makeover without losing an ounce of character.
Reincarnated venues are very now, with their own distinctive flair and story to tell, such as former pet-grooming parlours, electrical shops and ruby-gold brothels that have been born again as bars. Also on the up are rooftop bars where you can swoon over skyline views while sipping a mojito. Retro bars with junk-shop charm are returning to vogue, too, in a city that loves to time travel to a different era over a drink or two.
Your options are limitless, but particularly lively stretches if you’re devising a bar crawl include Gumpendorferstrasse in Mariahilf, between Naschmarkt and Mariahilferstrasse, Schleifmühlgasse in the Freihausviertel south of Naschmarkt (Wieden district) and the more touristy Bermudadreieck (Bermuda Triangle) in the Innere Stadt’s old Jewish quarter. The Gürtel ring road is great for DJs and live music in bar-club hybrids under the railway arches.
With the advent of summer, many revellers descend on outdoor venues. The bars and shady courtyards at Altes AKH university attract plenty, as does the market square Yppenplatz in Ottakring and the Freihausviertel in Wieden. The reinvention of the Danube Canal as a bar strip has been a huge success; Flex (Click here) is a long-established location, but the likes of Strandbar Herrmann (Click here) and Badeschiff (Click here), pool by day, bar by night, have added an entirely new dimension to the waterway.
As spring ushers in summer, Schanigärten (courtyard gardens and pavement terraces) begin to pop up like wildflowers, luring the Viennese outdoors. There were 1800 at the last count.
While Vienna won’t be stealing Berlin’s clubbing crown anytime soon, the capital’s relatively small scene still traverses the entire stylistic and musical spectrum, from chandelier-lit glamour to industrial-style grunge, with playlists skipping from indie through to house, electro, techno, R&B, reggae, metal and ’80s pop. Clubs invariably feature excellent DJs, with both home-grown and international talent working the decks.
Bombastic venues are rare creatures here and the vibe is kept intimate and friendly in small clubs, where dress codes and bouncers are often refreshingly relaxed. The borders between bars and clubs are often blurred, with DJs amping up the atmosphere as the night wears on. Indeed, what the clubs here often lack in size, they make up for with alternative flair or unique locations, whether you’re partying poolside in a former sauna-turned-club in the Prater, under the arches on the Gürtel or in a 1950s-style pavilion in the Volksgarten.
Venues where the beer is always fresh, the atmosphere jovial and families are welcome, Vienna’s microbreweries make for a great night out. Most offer a healthy selection of beers brewed on the premises (and proudly display the shining, brass brewing equipment), complemented by filling Austrian staples. Punters spill out into their courtyard gardens in summer.
While wine is the chosen drink of the Viennese, beer features heavily in the city’s cultural make-up. Here’s what you might order:
Blauburgunder Complex, fruity Pinot noir red.
Grüner Veltliner Strong, fresh white with hints of citrus and pear.
Riesling Fruity white with strong acidity.
Zweigelt Full-bodied red with intense cherry fruit aromas.
Dunkel Thick dark beer with a very rich flavour.
Helles Lager with a bite – clear and lightly hoppy.
Pils Crisp, strong and often bitter Pilsner beer.
Märzen Red-coloured beer with a strong malt taste.
Zwickel Unfiltered beer with a cloudy complexion.
Opening hours vary greatly and depend on season, with places often staying open later in summer. See individual listings for specific times.
» Bars & Pubs Generally open around 4pm or 5pm and close anywhere between midnight and 4am.
» Clubs Generally open between 6pm and 10pm and close roughly around 4am; many are only open Wednesday or Thursday through to Saturday.
» Falter (www.falter.at) Event and party listings.
» Vienna Online (http://party.vienna.at) Keep track of club nights with this event calendar.
» Tourist Info Wien (www.wien.info) Nightlife listings arranged by theme.
Standard beer prices range from €2 to €5, depending on the location and venue (central Vienna tends to be more expensive). Local wine is quite reasonable – you can easily get a decent glass of Austrian wine for around €3, though prices rise at fancier wine bars. Expect to pay at least €7 for a simple mixed drink and around €9 and up for a cocktail.
Entry prices can and do vary wildly – from nothing to €15 – and depend on who’s on the decks. Many small, intimate clubs offer free entry at least once a week.
Tipping is standard: for smaller bills (under €10) it is customary to round up and add another euro if need be; for larger tabs, 5% to 10% is customary.
»The Hofburg & Around Old-world wine taverns, intimate cocktail bars and drinks with Hofburg views in the Burggarten and Volksgarten.
»Stephansdom & the Historic Centre Narrow lanes hide a mix of cellar bars, wine bars, pubs and serious cocktail bars.
»Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt Boho hood crammed with clubs, retro and alternative bars, especially along Gumpendorferstrasse.
»The Museum District & Neubau Arty bars with a spritz of culture and alfresco seating – hit Spittelberg for Schanigärten .
»Alsergrund & the University District Student pubs and all-night parties under the Gürtel viaduct.
»Schloss Belvedere to the Canal Bars by the Danube Canal and the odd microbrewery.
»Prater & East of the Danube Clubbing live-wire around Praterstern, rooftop haunts and relaxed cafe-bars around Karmelitermarkt.
»Schloss Schönbrunn & Around A smattering of cafe-bars and clubs.
Le Loft Map out Vienna from above at this super-sleek lounge bar.
Loos American Bar Find a cosy alcove for a cocktail at Loos’ 1908 classic.
Volksgarten ClubDiskothek Party in the park at this glam club near the Hofburg.
Palmenhaus Cocktail sip in this palm house with great outdoor seating overlooking Burggarten.
Strandbar Herrmann Beach-side beers, DJs and films by the canal.
Tanzcafé Jenseits Brothel turned glamorously boho bar.
Strandbar Herrmann Lively ‘beach’ bar beside the Costa del Danube.
Urania Slick glass-walled bar overlooking the Danube Canal.
Vis-à-vis Postage stamp of a wine bar tucked down a narrow passage.
Weinstube Josefstadt Atmospheric Stadtheurigen hiding in an oasis of a garden.
Villon The central district’s deepest wine cellar has a light, modern ambience.
Sekt Comptoir Effervescent bar with Burgenland Sekt (sparkling wine) near the Naschmarkt.
Siebensternbräu Cheery brewpub with hoppy beers and a warm-weather courtyard.
Wieden Bräu Helles, Märzen and hemp beers, plus summertime garden.
Salm Bräu Relaxed pick for home brews right by Schloss Belvedere.
Loos American Bar Mixology magic in this minimalist, Adolf Loos–designed bar.
Kruger’s American Bar Sip a classic margarita in this 1920s, wood-panelled den.
Barfly’s Club Terrific cocktails in an intimate setting.
Lutz Modern contender with club chairs for conversing over a frozen mojito.
Tanzcafé Jenseits Bordello-chic bar with a tiny dance floor.
Phil Retro-cool cafe-bar with a chilled vibe and books for browsing.
Wirr Vintage furnishings, local art and a downstairs club.
Mon Ami Former pet-grooming salon turned ’60s-style bar.
Volksgarten ClubDiskothek A popular house-spinning club.
Pratersauna Dance to electro by the poolside at this former sauna.
Fluc Turbo-charged Praterstern club with an alternative edge.
Donau Tucked-away techno club with a friendly crowd.
Le Loft Knockout skyline views from this glass-clad bar on the 18th floor of the Sofitel.
Dachboden Big-top views of Vienna from the 25hours Hotel’s rooftop bar.
Café Oben Landmark spot from this cafe atop Hauptbücherei Wien.
Sky Bar Vienna’s most spectacular rooftop bar in the Innere Stadt.
Café Berg Friendly, open and stocks gay books.
Café Savoy The atmosphere of a traditional Viennese cafe plus a little pizzazz.
Mango Bar Ever-popular bar open every night of the week.
Frauencafé A women-only favourite of Vienna’s lesbian scene.
Palmenhaus Slide into summer with DJ beats, barbecues and beers.
Volksgarten Pavillon Drink in Hofberg views and summer vibes from this pavilion’s tree-shaded garden.
Café Leopold A terrace perfect for lapping up MuseumsQuartier’s cultural buzz.
Kunsthallencafé Join an arty laid-back crowd on the decking.