SIGHTS

STEPHANSDOM CATHEDRAL

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West & North of Stephansplatz

PETERSKIRCHE CHURCH

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( 533 64 33; www.peterskirche.at; 01, Petersplatz; 7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; Stephansplatz) The Peterskirche (Church of St Peter), situated just north of Graben, was built in 1733 according to plans of the celebrated baroque architect Johann Lukas von Hildebrandt. Interior highlights that make a visit highly worthwhile include a fresco on the dome painted by JM Rottmayr and a golden altar depicting the martyrdom of St John of Nepomuk.

This was not the first baroque church built in Vienna (the Dominikanerkirche has that honour), nor is it considered the finest (the Karlskirche, with its glass elevator to the cupola, pips it at the post), but it is one of the most attractive. Free pamphlets inside explain the interior. Regular organ recitals and concerts are also held here.

GRABEN STREET

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(01; Stephansplatz) Branching off from Stock-im-Eisen-Platz, Graben boasts two very remarkable sights. One of these is the writhing, towering Pestsäule OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (Plague Column; 01, Graben), erected in 1693 to commemorate the end of the plague. It was designed by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach. Not to be missed here are also Adolf Loos’ public toilets (01, Graben), which are in the Jugendstil (art nouveau) design.

Graben literally began life as a ditch dug by the Romans to protect Vinodoba. In 1192 Leopold V filled in the ditch and built a defensive city wall that ended in Freyung, using as finance the ransom paid by arch-rival Richard the Lionheart, who at that time was being kept under lock and key in a castle near Dürnstein, on the Danube.

Other architectural highlights to look out for on Graben include the neo-Renaissance Equitable Palais (01, Graben) at No 3; the ornate inner courtyard is tiled with Hungarian Zsolnay ceramics. The blackened and aged stump encased in glass on the building’s eastern corner was where apprentice journeyfolk during the Middle Ages would hammer nails into the stump to ensure a safe homeward journey. Also interesting are the neoclassical revivalist Erste Österreichische Sparkasse OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (01, Graben), 1836, on the corner of Tuchlauben, complete with a gilded bee symbolising thrift and industriousness, and the Jugendstil Grabenhof (01, Graben), 1876, at No 14, built by Otto Wagner using the plans of Otto Thienemann.

MUSEUM JUDENPLATZ MUSEUM

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( 535 04 31; www.jmw.at; 01, Judenplatz 8; adult/child €10/free, valid 48hr both Jewish museums; 10am-6pm Sun-Thu, to 2pm Fri; Stephansplatz, Herrengasse) The main focus of Museum Judenplatz is on the excavated remains of a medieval synagogue that once stood on Judenplatz, with a film and numerous exhibits to elucidate Jewish history. It was built in the Middle Ages, but Duke Albrecht V’s ‘hatred and misconception’ led him to order its destruction in 1421. The basic outline of the synagogue can still be seen here.

After entering the museum you watch an informative 12-minute video on Judaism, the synagogue and the Jewish quarter. Next up are the excavations, after which you can search the databases for lost relatives or friends if you wish. Glass cases containing fragments, such as documents from Jewish history in Vienna, are dotted throughout the museum. An audio guide costs €2 (in German and English, with a special children’s version too). Vienna’s other Jewish museum (Click here) is on Dorotheergasse. Free tours, generally on the first Sunday in the month (in German), are conducted at 3pm from the Jüdisches Museum and 4.30pm from Museum Judenplatz, covering all exhibitions.

HOLOCAUST-DENKMAL MEMORIAL

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(01, Judenplatz; Stephansplatz) The Holocaust-Denkmal (2000) is the focal point of Judenplatz and a memorial to the 65,000 Austrian Jews who perished in the Holocaust. Designed by British sculptor Rachel Whiteread, this ‘nameless library’ depicts books with their spines facing inwards, representing the untold stories of Holocaust victims; it’s embellished with the names of Austrian concentration camps.

The northern side of Judenplatz is occupied by the former Böhmische Hofkanzlei OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (Bohemian Court Chancery; 01, Judenplatz), with a striking facade by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach. Walk around to Wipplingerstrasse to see this.

STADTTEMPEL SYNAGOGUE

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( 531 041 11; www.jmw.at; 01, Seitenstettengasse 4; tours adult/child €4/free; guided tours 11.30am & 2pm Mon-Thu; Stephansplatz, Schwedenplatz) Vienna’s main synogogue was completed in 1826 after Toleranzpatent reforms by Joseph II in the 1780s granted rights to Vienna’s Jews to practise their religion. This paved the way for improved standing for Jews and brought a rise in fortunes. Built in an exquisite Biedermeier style, the main prayer room is flanked by 12 ionic columns and is capped by a cupola.

The synagogue seats about 500 people. Visitors of the Jewish faith can phone (Hebrew, English and German spoken) for more information about services. Arrive early to register with security, and bring your passport.

ANKERUHR CLOCK

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(Anker Clock; 01, Hoher Markt 10-11; Stephansplatz, Schwedenplatz) Hoher Markt is Vienna’s oldest square and was once the centre of the Roman outpost; today it is also home to the Ankeruhr, an art nouveau masterpiece created by Franz von Matsch in 1911 and named after the Anker Insurance Co, which commissioned it. Over a 12-hour period, figures slowly pass across the clock face, indicating the time against a static measure showing the minutes.

Figures range from Marcus Aurelius (the Roman emperor who died in Vienna in AD 180) to Josef Haydn, with Eugene of Savoy, Maria Theresia and many others in between. Details of who’s who are on a plaque on the wall below. People flock here at noon, when all the figures trundle past in succession to the tune of organ music.

AM HOF SQUARE

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(01; Herrengasse, Schottentor) This large square was where the Babenbergs resided before rulers moved to the site of the Hofburg in the late 13th century. The attractive Mariensäule (Mary’s Column; 1667) rises up in the centre, but also look for house No 11, where a gold-painted cannon­ball is a reminder of the 1683 Turkish siege. The former Jesuit monastery Kirche Am Hof OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 533 83 94; admission free; 8am-noon & 4-6pm Mon-Sat, 4pm-6pm Sun; Herrengasse, Schottentor) occupies the southeast side.

Kirche Am Hof has a baroque facade adapted from its fire-damaged Gothic pre­decessor and a hugely expansive nave lined with white pillars and topped with gold badges. It was here in 1806 that a royal herald announced the end of the Holy Roman Empire, ruled by the Habsburgs for about 500 years.

UHREN MUSEUM MUSEUM

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(Clock Museum; 533 22 65; www.wienmuseum.at; 01, Schulhof 2; adult/under 19yr €6/free; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; 1A, 3A Renngasse, Herrengasse) The municipal Uhren Museum loudly ticks away time from its location behind the Kirche Am Hof. Opened in 1921 in the Hafenhaus, one of Vienna’s oldest buildings, its three floors are weighed down with an astounding 21,200 clocks and watches, ranging from the 15th century to a 1992 computer clock.

The collection of Biedermeier and belle époque models will, for most, steal the show. The peace and quiet is shattered at the striking of the hour, so those with sensitive ears should avoid these times.

ARCHIV DES ÖSTERREICHISCHEN
WIDERSTANDS MUSEUM

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( 228 94 69; www.doew.at; 01, Wipplingerstrasse 8; 9am-5pm Mon-Thu; Stephansplatz) F Housed in the Altes Rathaus (Old City Hall), the Austrian Resistance Archive has a disturbing but highly worthwhile exhibition that documents with photos and other exhibits the little-known antifascist resistance force that operated during the Nazi regime; some 2700 resistance fighters were executed by the Nazis and thousands more sent to concentration camps.

The exhibition gives in-depth analysis of the Nazi doctrines on homosexuality, ‘unworthy’ citizens, concentration camps and forced labour, with many of the photos and memorabilia detailing the time before and after the Anschluss (annexation) .

NEIDHART-FRESKEN MURAL

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( 535 90 65; 01, Tuchlauben 19; 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun; Stephansplatz) F An unassuming house on Tuchlauben hides quite a remarkable decoration: the oldest extant secular murals in Vienna. The small frescoes, dating from 1398, tell the story of the minstrel Neidhart von Reuental (1180–1240) and life in the Middle Ages in lively and jolly scenes. The frescoes are in superb condition considering their age.

RÖMER MUSEUM MUSEUM

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( 535 56 06; 01, Hoher Markt 3; adult/under 19yr €6/free; 9am-6pm Tue-Sun; 1A, 3A Hoher Markt, Stephansplatz) This small expanse of Roman ruins dating from the 1st to the 5th century is thought to be part of the officers’ quarters of the Roman legion camp at Vindobona. You can see crumbled walls, tiled floors and a small exhibition of artefacts here. The ruins are part of the ‘Wien Museum’ municipal museum ensemble of Vienna.

MARIA AM GESTADE CHURCH

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( 533 95 94-0; www.maria-am-gestade.redemptoristen.at; 01, Passauer Platz; 8am-7pm; Stephansplatz, 1, 2 Salztorbrücke) Originally a wooden church built by Danube boatmen around 880, Maria am Gestade (Maria on the Riverbank) is today a shapely Gothic beauty of stone assembled from the 14th century. Because of the steep ground, the nave was built narrower than the choir (and with a slight bend). In 1805 Napoleon used it to store weapons and as a stall.

The interior boasts a high vaulted Gothic ceiling and pretty stained glass behind a winged Gothic altar. The church is on a picturesque flight of steps in a quiet corner of town.

RUPRECHTSKIRCHE CHURCH

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(St Rupert’s Church; 535 60 03; www.ruprechtskirche.at; 01, Seitenstettengasse 5; 10am-noon & 3-5pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 10am-noon Tue & Thu; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) Located a few steps north of Ruprechts­platz, Ruprechtskirche dates from about 1137 or earlier, giving it the honour of being the oldest church in Vienna. The lower levels of the tower date from the 12th century, the roof from the 15th century and the iron Renaissance door on the west side from the 1530s.

What makes this church attractive in summer is its unusually simple exterior of ivy-clad stone walls in cobblestoned surrounds. The interior is sleek and worth a quick viewing, with a Romanesque nave from the 12th century.

MORZINPLATZ SQUARE

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(01; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) Situated on the Danube Canal between Salztorbrücke and Marienbrücke, Morzinplatz is dominated by the Monument to the Victims of Fascism OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP , 1985, on the site of the former Gestapo headquarters during the Nazi era. The monument features the Star of David and the pink triangle, representing the Jewish and homosexual victims of the Nazis.

South & East of Stephansplatz

MOZARTHAUS VIENNA MUSEUM

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( 512 17 91; www.mozarthausvienna.at; 01, Domgasse 5; adult/child €10/3, with Haus der Musik €17/7; 10am-7pm; Stephansplatz) Mozarthaus Vienna, the residence where the great composer spent 2½ happy and productive years, is now the city’s premier Mozart attraction. Although the exhibits in themselves are not startling (they tend to be mainly copies of music scores or based around paintings), the free audio guide is indispensable and recreates well the story of Mozart and his time.

Mozart spent a total of 11 years in Vienna, changing residence frequently and sometimes setting up his home outside the Ringstrasse in the cheaper Vorstädte (inner suburbs) when he needed to tighten his purse.

The exhibition begins on the top floor of this historic building with a narrow, closed-in inner courtyard. This deals with the society of the late 18th century, providing asides into prominent figures in the court and Mozart’s life, such as the Freemasons to whom he dedicated a number of pieces. Mozart’s vices – his womanising, gambling and ability to waste excessive amounts of money – lend a spicy edge (you can look through some peepholes). The next floor concentrates on Mozart’s music and his musical influences. It was in this house that he penned The Marriage of Figaro, which went down like a lead balloon in Vienna but was enthusiastically received in Prague. A surreal holographic performance of scenes from The Magic Flute is in another room. The final floor has Mozart’s bedroom and a few period pieces of furniture in glass cases to give a feel for the era.

FLEISCHMARKT STREET

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(01, Fleischmarkt; Stephansplatz) Greek merchants settled around Fleischmarkt from about 1700, which gradually became known as the Griechenviertel (Greek quarter). Today it has some attractive art nouveau buildings, such as No 14, built by F Dehm and F Olbricht (1899), No 7 (Max Kropf; 1899) – the childhood home of Hollywood film director Billy Wilder from 1914 to 1924 – and Nos 1 and 3 (1910).

The favourite meeting place of the Greek community was the Griechenbeisl (Click here), today one of Vienna’s most popular (and touristed) Beisln. As the they became more established, a few wealthier Greeks spun off towards the Ringstrasse and built larger abodes there, and one immigrant, the industrialist and politician Nikolaus von Dumba, commissioned the building of Palais Dumba in 1866.

GREEK ORTHODOX CHURCH CHURCH

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( 533 38 89; 01, Fleischmarkt 13; 10am-3pm; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) Built in 1861 at the behest of the Greek community, the interior of Vienna’s main Greek Orthodox church is a glittering blaze of Byzantine designs. A ceiling fresco depicting the prophets surrounded by swirls of gold is augmented by a high altar of 13 panels, each of which features sparkling gilding, and a doorway to the inner sanctum.

Today, the Greek community in Vienna numbers about 10,000.

FRANZISKANERKIRCHE CHURCH

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( 512 45 7811; 01, Franziskanerplatz; 7am-8pm; Stephansplatz) This Franciscan church is a glorious architectural deception. Outside it exudes the hallmarks of an early 17th-century Renaissance style, yet inside it is awash with gold and marble decorative features from the baroque era about 100 years later. The high altar takes the form of a triumphal arch and hidden behind this is Vienna’s oldest organ (1642), built by Johann Wöckherl.

JESUITENKIRCHE CHURCH

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( 512 5232-0; www.jesuitenwien1.at; 01, Dr-Ignaz-Seipel-Platz 1; 7am-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-7pm Sun; Stephansplatz, Stubentor, 2 Stubentor) Opposite Dr-Ignaz-Seipel-Platz is the Jesuitenkirche, formerly the university church, which dates from 1627. In 1703 this church received a baroque makeover by the Italian architect and painter Andrea Pozzo (1642–1709), who created its startling trompe-l’œil dome and other ceiling frescoes. Walk beyond the ‘dome’ to visually destroy Pozzo’s illusion.

DR-IGNAZ-SEIPEL-PLATZ SQUARE

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(01; Stephansplatz) Formerly known as Universitätsplatz (University Square), this was once the heart of Vienna’s old university quarter. Today, the Austrian Academy of the Sciences OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 515 81-0; www.oeaw.ac.at; Dr-Ignaz-Seipel-Platz 2; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, Festsaal from 10am; Stubentor, 2 Stubentor) F is located inside the Alte-Uni (Old Uni) building. An early university was built here in the 1420s, but the current building has all the hallmarks of the new late-baroque building erected here in the mid-18th century, especially the decorative Festsaal (Festive Hall).

DOMINIKANERKIRCHE CHURCH

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( 512 91 74; 01, Postgasse 4; 7am-7pm; Stubentor, 2 Stubentor) The Dominican church was the first baroque church built in Vienna and was consecrated in 1634. It was largely the work of Italian architects and artisans and is well worth dropping into for its spacious interior adorned with white stucco and frescoes.

The Dominicans first came to Vienna in 1226, when Leopold VI of Babenberg invited them to settle, but their earliest church burned down less than 50 years later. Its Gothic replacement had the ignominy of being dismantled during the first Turkish siege in 1529 and its stone being used to fortify the city walls, before finally this baroque church was built.

POSTSPARKASSE BUILDING

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( 534 53 33088; 01, Georg-Coch-Platz 2; museum adult/child €6/free; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) The marble-cased and metal-‘studded’ Post Office Savings Bank building is the Jugendstil work of Otto Wagner, who oversaw its construction between 1904 and 1906, and again from 1910 to 1912. You can explore the back section of the building, where there’s also a small museum with temporary exhibitions on design and a video section on the history of the building.

The Jugendstil design and choice of materials were innovative for the time, with the grey marble facade held together by 17,000 metal nails, and an interior filled with sci-fi aluminium heating ducts and naked stanchions.

BAWAG CONTEMPORARY/
BAWAG FOUNDATION GALLERY

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( 534 53-0; www.bawag-foundation.at; 01, Franz-Josefs-Kai 3; 2pm-8pm; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Julius-Raab-Platz) F This gallery, financed by the Bawag Bank, features contemporary artists from both the international and local scenes, focusing on the generation born in the 1970s. It has a regular influx of excellent temporary exhibitions on display in all media, with works ranging from painting, multimedia and sculpture to photo exhibitions and film.

EATING

BEIM CZAAK BISTRO PUB €

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( 513 72 15; www.czaak.com; 01, Postgasse 15; midday menus €8, mains €9.20-17; 11am-midnight Mon-Sat; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) In contrast to more heavily touristed Beisln in the Innere Stadt, Beim Czaak has a genuine and relatively simple interior. As you would expect, Classic Viennese meat dishes dominate the menu, with long-time favourites such as Wiener Schnitzel, Tafelspitz (prime boiled beef), the Haus Schnitzel (weighted down with ham, cheese, mushrooms and onions – yum) and Styrian chicken.

MASCHU MASCHU MIDDLE EASTERN €

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( 533 29 04; www.maschu-maschu.at; 01, Rabensteig 8; mains €3.50-8; 11.30am-11.30pm; ; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) Delicious falafels, hummus and salads are the keys to Maschu Maschu’s success. This branch on Rabensteig, with its meagre number of tables, is better used as a take­away joint, while another branch in Neubau (Click here) is best for sit-down meals.

FRESH SOUP & SALAD VEGETARIAN €

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(01, Wipplingerstrasse 1; soups, salads & curries €3.50; 11am-7.30pm Mon-Fri; ; Stephansplatz, Schwedenplatz, Schwedenplatz) The name says it all, except Fresh Soup & Salad also does inexpensive curries on top of this.

AKAKIKO ASIAN €

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(www.akakiko.at; 01, Rotenturmstrasse 6; most dishes €4.90-10.90, sushi €9.90-18.50; 10.30am-11.30pm; Stephansplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) Head for the roomy upstairs area to avoid the bustle in this rambling joint serving inexpensive, off-the-rack noodle dishes, curries, sushi and sashimi, as well as a three-course set-lunch menu that won’t break budgets. This is a chain of pan-Asian restaurants, with a better but less central branch on Heidenschuss (01, Heidenschuss 3; 10.30am-11.30pm).

MOTTO AM FLUSS INTERNATIONAL €€

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( 25 255; www.motto.at/mottoamfluss; 01, Franz-Josefs-Kai, btwn Marien- and Schwedenbrücke; mains €19-26; 11.30am-2.30pm & 6pm-2am, bar 6pm-4am, cafe 8am-2am; ; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) Exuding an inviting glow from inside the Wien-City ferry terminal on the Danube Canal, Motto am Fluss (affiliated with Motto in Margareten) is one of Vienna’s better midrange restaurants, exuding a stylish lounge feel throughout the bar and restaurant areas, topped off by a cafe upstairs – all of this is with fantastic views over the Danube Canal. After 10pm smoking is allowed, but it rarely gets smoky.

The restaurant serves Austro-International cuisine with quality organic meats; the bar is a superbly relaxed hangout for pre- and post-dinner drinks (or simply drop by for a drink); and the cafe upstairs rounds off the chic feel throughout with good coffee and a small selection of cakes and pastries for the sweet tooth.

GRIECHENBEISL BISTRO PUB €€

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( 533 19 77; www.griechenbeisl.at; 01, Fleischmarkt 11; mains €11.60-25; 11am-1am; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) As the oldest guesthouse in Vienna (dating from 1447), and once frequented by the likes of Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert and Johannes Brahms, Griechenbeisl is a lovely haunt popular among locals and tourists alike, with vaulted rooms, age-old wood panelling and a figure of Augustin trapped at the bottom of a well just inside the front door.

Every classic Viennese dish is on the menu, and in summer the plant-fringed front garden is pole position.

YOHM ASIAN €€

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( 533 29 00; 01, Petersplatz 3; mains €19.50-34, noodles €14-29.50, 4-/6-course menus €48/65; noon-3pm & 6pm-midnight; ; Stephansplatz) A typical scene in Yohm is of black-clad waiters gliding between tables to refill glasses with celebrated Austrian wines as diners revel in views of Peters­kirche while enjoying contemporary Asian cuisine. Sushi looms large on the menu, but consider ordering one of the kitchen’s more unusual offerings in this long-standing and much loved pan-Asian place.

EXPEDIT ITALIAN €€

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( 512 33 1323; www.xpedit.at; 01, Wiesingerstrasse 6; pasta €10.50-12.50, mains €18.50; 11am-2am Mon-Fri, 8pm-2am Sat; 2 Julius-Raab-Platz) Expedit successfully moulds itself on a Ligurian osteria . The warehouse decor helps lend an informal atmosphere along with a clean, smart look. Every day brings a new selection of seasonal dishes to the small menu. Reservations are recommended and you can take food away to eat in your hotel if you like.

TIAN VEGETARIAN €€

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( 890 4665; www.tian-vienna.com; 01, Himmelpfortgasse 23; 3-course lunch €12.50-16, 3-6-course evening menu €39-69, mains €18; noon-4pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat; ; Stephansplatz, 2 Weihburggasse) S Stealthy charm meets urban attitude at this sleek lounge-style restaurant which takes vegetarian cuisine to delicious heights. Lunch menus offer the best value; you can also enjoy a drink in the delightful cocktail bar (Friday and Saturday from 5pm to 3am).

FIGLMÜLLER BISTRO PUB €€

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( 512 61 77; www.figlmueller.at; 01, Wollzeile 5; mains €13-23; 11am-10.30pm, kitchen closes 9.30pm; ; Stephansplatz) The Viennese would simply be at a loss without Figlmüller. This famous Beisl has some of the biggest and best schnitzels in the business. The rural decor is contrived for its inner-city location and beer isn’t served (wine is from the owner’s vineyard), but it’s a fun Beisl eating experience. The kitchen of the Bäckerstrasse 6 ( 512 17 60; www.figlmueller.at; 01, Bäckerstrasse 6; 11.45am-midnight) section is open till 11pm.

CAFÉ KORB AUSTRIAN €€

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(www.cafekorb.at; 01, Brandstätte 9; mains €6.20-17.80; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-11pm Sun; ; Stephansplatz) As the name suggests, Sigmund Freud’s favourite hangout of yore is a coffee house, but its menu places it in the realm of a Beisl – and if you don’t mind the smoke, a very good one at that. The food is classic and the crowd eclectic and offbeat. There’s an attractive ‘art lounge’ downstairs area too, used for events, and toilets designed to impress!

BODEGA MARQUÉS SPANISH €€

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( 533 91 70; www.bodegamarques.at; 01, Parisergasse 1; tapas €4.50-15.50, most mains €12-21.50; 5pm-1am Mon-Sat, to 11pm Sun; Stephansplatz) Calamari specialties, Gambas (shrimps) and over 30 different tapas imported from Spain help make Bodega Marqués an excellent Mediterranean choice in the Innere Stadt. Throw in 120 varieties of wine, vaulted ceilings and subdued lighting and you’ve got the makings of a romantic atmosphere. Friday and Saturday nights (in winter, until the garden area opens) have live flamenco music.

ALL’ ISOLA ITALIAN, SEAFOOD €€

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( 513 94 33; www.all-isola.at; 01, Sonnenfelsgasse 5; pasta €11-14.90, mains €11.20-21.90, lunch special €8.90; 11.30am-midnight Mon-Sat; Stephansplatz) The kitchen is open throughout the day in this small Italian place with ultra-rustic decor and good pasta and seafood.

ZUM SCHWARZEN KAMEEL INTERNATIONAL €€

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( 533 81 25 12; www.kameel.at; 01, Bognergasse 5; sandwiches around €3, soups €6, mains €15-40, 4-/5-course menu €78/90; 8.30am-midnight Mon-Sat; ; Stephansplatz, Herrengasse) Zum Schwarzen Kameel is an eclectic cross between a deli/sandwich shop and highbrow wine bar. The mostly well-heeled folks who frequent it nibble on sandwiches at the bar while facing the difficult choice of which Achterl of wine (0.125L) to select from the lengthy list. Soups are available to go, while more-substantial dishes are served in the wood-panelled dining area upstairs.

WRENKH VEGETARIAN €€

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( 533 15 26; www.wiener-kochsalon.at; 01, Bauernmarkt 10; mains €8.80-26.50; noon-10pm Mon-Sat; ; Stephansplatz) Wrenkh was long the cutting edge of vegetarian cuisine, but in more recent times owner Christian Wrenkh has begun offering a handful of meat and fish dishes. Choose from the vibrant front section with its glass walls and chatty customers, or the quieter back room with its intimate booths. Vegetarian dishes cost less than €15, the lunch menu about €10.

MEINL’S RESTAURANT INTERNATIONAL €€€

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( 532 33 34 6000; www.meinlamgraben.at; 01, Graben 19; mains €26-45, 3–6-course menus €47-93; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; ; Stephansplatz) Meinl’s combines cuisine of superlative quality with an un­rivalled wine list and views of Graben. The freshest of ingredients are used to create inviting dishes, often integrating delicate Mediterranean sauces and sweet aromas. There is a quality providore (Click here) on-site, a cellar wine bar ( 11am-midnight Mon-Sat) with good lunch menus (€9.90 to €12.90), as well as a cafe and sushi bar (€8.60 to €18)

KORNAT SEAFOOD €€€

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( 535 65 18; www.kornat.at; 01, Marc-Aurel-Strasse 8; soup €5-7.50, mains €19.50-27.50, fish of the day per 100g €8; 11.30am-midnight; Stephansplatz, Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) Finding a meal in one of the more upmarket restaurants with an all-day kitchen in Vienna’s historic old town is not always easy; Dalmatian Kornat serves good seafood all day and evening. If you don’t want a fully fledged seafood meal, drop by outside the lunch and dinner hours and just order one of the soups.

Kornat also has an exceptional wine list, which you can peruse while enjoying the olives and capers, fresh bread and delicious olive oil that come with the table setting.

AURELIUS ITALIAN, CROATIAN €€€

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( 535 55 24; www.aurelius-wien.at; 01, Marc-Aurel-Strasse 8; antipasti €10-16, mains €20-30; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; Stephansplatz, Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) This stylish Italian and Croatian restaurant has a large, loyal following for its fantastic range of antipasti and main-course seafood, as well as for a couple of dishes based around beef and lamb. The fish of the day costs €6 per 100g and the bar stays open until 1am if you would like to linger.

HOLLMANN SALON BISTRO PUB €€€

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( 961 19 60 40; www.hollmann-salon.at; 01, Grashofgasse 3; mains €13-24, 3–4-course menus €38-48; 8am-3pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat; ; Stephansplatz, Stubentor, 2 Stubentor) Situated inside the extraordinarily beautiful Heiligenkreuzerhof, Holl­mann Salon combines the rural flavour of a country homestead with urban chic. Its succulent organic meats on a changing menu come from the Waldviertel north of the Danube, while always relying on seasonal produce from local producers. Seating is mostly at communal tables; last orders are at 9pm.

Cakes and breads are homemade and there’s outstanding outdoor eating in summer.

RESTAURANT BAUER FRENCH €€€

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( 512 98 71; 01, Sonnenfelsgasse 17; 5-course menu €79, mains about €25; dinner Mon, lunch & dinner Tue-Fri; Stephansplatz) This intimate, exquisite restaurant offers a small, seasonal menu and has the relaxed style of a French noble bistro, with broader influences from Mediterranean countries such as Spain. Add €35 to the menu if you choose the wine accompaniment.

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

KRUGER’S AMERICAN BAR BAR

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(www.krugers.at; 01, Krugerstrasse 5; from 6pm Mon-Sat; Stephansplatz, D, 1, 2, 71 Kärntner Ring/Oper) This wood-panelled American-style bar is a legend in Vienna, retaining some of its original furnishings from the 1930s and complete with a separate cigar and smoker’s lounge.

SKY BAR ROOFTOP BAR

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(www.skybar.at; 01, Kärntner Strasse 19; 9.30am-3am; Stephansplatz) Fans into the kick of glass panorama lifts won’t be disappointed by this one, which whisks you up into the Sky Bar on the top floor of the Steffl department store to sip on one (or more) of the 350 cocktails, in Vienna’s most spectacular rooftop bar in the Innere Stadt. During the day and early evening it has the flavour of a cafe and restaurant.

CAFÉ ALT WIEN COFFEE HOUSE

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( 512 52 22; 01, Bäckerstrasse 9; 10am-2am; ; Stephansplatz) Dark, Bohemian and full of character, Alt Wien is a classic dive attracting students and arty types. It’s also a one-stop shop for a lowdown on events in the city – every available wall space is plastered with posters advertising shows, concerts and exhibitions. The goulash is legendary and perfectly complemented by dark bread and beer.

KLEINES CAFÉ CAFE

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(01, Franziskanerplatz 3; 10am-2am Mon-Sat, 1pm-2am Sun; Stubentor, 2 Weihburggasse) Designed by architect Hermann Czech in the 1970s, Kleines Café exudes a Bohemian atmosphere reminiscent of Vienna’s heady Jugendstil days. It’s tiny inside, but the wonderful summer outdoor seating on Franziskanerplatz is arguably the best in the Innere Stadt.

CAFÉ PRÜCKEL COFFEE HOUSE

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(www.prueckel.at; 01, Stubenring 24; 8.30am-10pm; ; Stubentor, 2 Stubentor) Prückel’s unique mould is a little different from other Viennese cafes: instead of a sumptuous interior, it features an intact 1950s design. Intimate booths, aloof waiters, strong coffee, diet-destroying cakes and Prückel’s speciality, its delicious apple strudel, are all big attractions. Live piano music tinkles across the room from 7pm to 10pm on Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

VIS-À-VIS WINE BAR

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( 512 93 50; www.weibel.at; 01, Wollzeile 5; 4.30pm-10.30pm Tue-Sat; Stephansplatz) Hidden down a narrow, atmospheric passage is this wee wine bar seating only 10, but it makes up for it with over 350 wines on offer (with a strong emphasis on Austrian faves). It’s a perfect spot to escape after a packed day of sightseeing – tapas, antipasto and gourmet olives round out the selection.

AIDA CAFE

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( 512 29 77; www.aida.at; 01, Singerstrasse 1; 7am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun; Stephansplatz) An icon of the Konditorei (cake shop) scene, Aida is a time warp for coffee lovers. Its pink-and-brown colour scheme – right down to the waiters’ socks – matches the 1950s retro decor perfectly. Order a Melange (milky coffee) and a slice of cake (there are almost 30 to choose from) and head upstairs for views. Thirty such Aida gems are scattered throughout Vienna.

DIGLAS COFFEE HOUSE

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( 512 57 65; www.diglas.at; 01, Wollzeile 10; 8am-10.30pm; Stephansplatz) Diglas comes straight from the classic coffee-house mould, with swanky red-velvet booths, sharp-tongued waiters, an extensive (and good) coffee range, and old dames dressed to the nines. The reputation of Diglas’ cakes precedes it, and the Apfelstrudel is unrivalled. Meals are delicate and more like snacks. Live piano music fills Diglas from 7pm to 10pm Thursday to Saturday.

HAAS & HAAS CAFE

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( 512 26 66; www.haas-haas.at; 01, Stephansplatz 4; 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; Stephansplatz) The fragrance of tea from around the world greets customers on entry to Haas & Hass, Vienna’s prime tearoom (coffee is also served). Green, herbal, aromatic, Assam, Ceylon, Darjeeling – the selection seems endless. The rear garden is a shaded retreat from the wind, rain, sun and tourist bustle, while the front parlour sports comfy cushioned booths and views of Stephansdom.

ZWÖLF APOSTELKELLER WINE TAVERN

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( 512 67 77; www.zwoelf-apostelkeller.at; 01, Sonnenfelsgasse 3; 11am-midnight; Stephansplatz) Even though Zwölf Apostelkeller (Twelve Apostle Cellar) plays it up for the tourists, it still retains plenty of charm, dignity and authenticity. This is mostly due to the premises themselves: a vast, dimly lit multilevel cellar. The atmosphere is often lively and rowdy, helped along by traditional Heuriger (wine tavern) music from 7pm daily.

WHY NOT? GAY

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(www.why-not.at; 01, Tiefer Graben 22; cover after midnight €7; 10pm-4am Fri & Sat; ; Herrengasse, 1 Salztorbrücke) This is one of the few clubs focusing its attention solely on the gay scene. The small club quickly fills up with mainly young guys out for as much fun as possible.

ENTERTAINMENT

JAZZLAND JAZZ

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( 533 25 75; www.jazzland.at; 01, Franz-Josefs-Kai 29; cover €11-20; from 7pm Mon-Sat, live music from 9pm; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) Jazzland has been an institution of Vienna’s jazz scene for over 30 years. The music covers the whole jazz spectrum, and the brick venue features a grand mixture of both international and local acts.

KAMMEROPER OPERA

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( Wien Ticket 588 85; www.wienerkammeroper.at; 01, Fleischmarkt 24; tickets €5-48; Schwedenplatz, 1, 2 Schwedenplatz) This ranks as Vienna’s third opera house after the Staatsoper and Volksoper. Its small venue is perfect for quirky opera productions and in summer the company is transported to the Schlosstheater Schönbrunn to continue performances in more opulent surroundings. Children under 16 receive 35% discount when accompanied by an adult.

ARTIS INTERNATIONAL CINEMA

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( 535 65 70; www.cineplexx.at; 01, Schultergasse 5; tickets €8.50; Stephansplatz, Schwedenplatz) Artis has six small cinemas in the heart of the Innere Stadt. It only shows English-language films, of the Hollywood blockbuster variety, often in original English without subtitles.

GARTENBAUKINO CINEMA

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( 512 23 54; www.gartenbaukino.at; 01, Parkring 12; tickets €8.50; Stubentor, Stadtpark, 2 Stubentor) The interior of the Gartenbaukino has survived since the 1960s, making a trip to the flicks here offbeat and appealing. The actual cinema seats a whopping 750 people, and is often packed during Viennale Film Festival screenings. Its regular screening schedule is full to overflowing with art-house films, normally with subtitles.

PORGY & BESS JAZZ

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( 512 88 11; www.porgy.at; 01, Riemergasse 11; most nights €18; concerts from 7pm or 8pm; Stubentor, 2 Stubentor) Quality is the cornerstone of Porgy & Bess’ continuing popularity. Its program is loaded with modern jazz acts from around the globe, including many from the USA and nearby Balkan countries. The interior is dim and the vibe velvety and very grown-up.

SHOPPING

MEINL AM GRABEN FOOD, WINE

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(www.meinlamgraben.at; 01, Graben 19; 8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat; Stephansplatz, Herrengasse) You’ve arrived at Vienna’s most prestigious providore, part of the famed Meinl’s Restaurant. Quality European foodstuffs like chocolate and confectionery dominate the ground floor, and impressive cheese and cold meats beckon upstairs. The top-end wine shop stocks European and Austrian wine and fruit liqueurs, or indulge in a glass at Meinl’s Weinbar in a chilled, classy atmosphere.

ART UP FASHION, ACCESSORIES

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(www.artup.at; 01, Bauernmarkt 8; 11am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; Stephansplatz) Take the temperature of Vienna’s contemporary design scene at Art Up, offering space for young designers to get a foothold in the fashion world. The model makes for an eclectic collection – elegant fashion pieces rub alongside quirky accessories (Astroturf tie or handbag, anyone?) as well as ceramics and bigger art pieces.

It’s a testament to the liveliness of the fashion and design scenes in Vienna, given new vigour by students coming out of the city’s fashion schools and driven by a burgeoning confidence in the quality of home-grown talent.

UNGER UND KLEIN WINE

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(www.ungerundklein.at; 01, Gölsdorfgasse 2; 3pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 5pm-midnight Sat; Schwedenplatz, 1 Salztorbrücke) Unger und Klein’s small but knowledgeable wine collection spans the globe, but the majority of its labels come from Europe. The best of Austrian wines – from expensive boutique vari­eties to bargain-bin bottles – are available. It’s also a small, laid-back wine bar, with a reasonable selection of wines by the glass, which gets crowded on Friday and Saturday evenings.

WEIN & CO WINE

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(www.weinco.at; 01, Jasomirgott­strasse 3-5; 10am-2am Mon-Sat, 3pm-midnight Sun; ; Stephansplatz) With a wide selection of quality European and New World wines, and a huge variety of local bottles, Wein & Co is probably your best bet for wine shopping – you should be able to pick up a bargain, as the specials here are always great. You can also buy cigars, and the wine bar has a terrace with a view of Stephansdom.

ALTMANN & KÜHNE FOOD

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(www.altmann-kuehne.at; 01, Graben 30; 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat; Stephansplatz) This charming small shop has a touch of the Old World about it, partly due to the handmade packaging of its chocolates and sweets, which was designed by Wiener Werkstätte in 1928. Altmann & Kühne have been producing handmade bonbons for more than 100 years using a well-kept secret recipe.

ATELIER NASKE JEWELLERY

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(www.goldkunst.at; 01, Wipplingerstrasse 7; 2.30-6.30pm Wed & Thu, 3.30-6.30pm Mon & Tue; Stephansplatz) Elke Naske’s passion for jewellery is intoxicating. Delicate butterfly pendants, perfectly sculpted rings, cufflinks embedded with precious stones and more are all painstakingly hand-tapped. Commission her for a piece and she’ll make an initial model of it in (less expensive) silver, just to make sure it fits or hangs correctly and suits you unequivocally.

VIENNA BAG FASHION, ACCESSORIES

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(www.viennabag.com; 01, Bäckerstrasse 7; 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; Stephansplatz) Vienna Bag has been making its funky and practical handbags and satchels since 2001. In both black and brightly coloured varieties, they’re not only strong, lightweight and washable but chic as well.

WOKA HOMEWARES

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(www.woka.at; 01, Singerstrasse 16; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; Stephansplatz) Get a feel for the spectacular Wiener Werkstätte aesthetic and Bauhaus, art deco and Secessionist design, with its accurate reproductions of lamps designed by the likes of Adolf Loos, Kolo Moser and Josef Hoffmann.

AUSTRIAN DELIGHTS FOOD

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(www.austriandelights.at; 01, Judengasse 1a; 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; Stephansplatz) Stocking Austrian-made items by mainly small producers, Austrian Delights has regional specialities – fine confectionery, local wine, schnapps and cognac, jams, jellies, chutneys, honey, vinegars and oils – that you can’t find anywhere else in the capital. Check out its sparkling and still Schilcher wines made from Blauer Wildbacher grapes, a fruity and off-pink-coloured tipple rarely found outside Austria.

Most of the wares are manufactured by hand or the kind of items Austrian grandmothers made through the ages. Samples of many food items are available to taste.

MANNER CONFECTIONERY

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(www.manner.com; 01, Stephansplatz 7; 10am-9pm; Stephansplatz) Even Manner (a glorious concoction of wafers and hazelnut cream), Vienna’s favourite sweet since 1898, has its own concept store now decked out in the biscuit’s signature peachy pink. Buy the product in every imaginable variety and packaging combination (tip: it’s a fab snack to carry around when sightseeing).

SHAKESPEARE & CO BOOKS

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(www.shakespeare.co.at; 01, Sterngasse 2; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat; Stephansplatz, Schwedenplatz) This beautifully cluttered bookshop in a charming area just off Judengasse stocks Vienna’s best collection of literary and hard-to-find titles in English – history, culture, classic and modern fiction – with a wide range of titles about Austria and by Austrian writers.

SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

BADESCHIFF SWIMMING

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(www.badeschiff.at; 01, Danube Canal; adult/child €5/2.50; 10am-midnight May-Oct; Schwedenplatz, 1 Julius-Raab-Platz) Swim on but not in the Danube. Floating smack on the bank of the canal, between Schwedenplatz and Urania, this pool doubles as a bar at night (in winter the pool closes and the ship is a bar and restaurant only). Multiple decks have lounge chairs, and cocktail and snack bars abound.