Schloss Schönbrunn & Around
For more detail of this area see Neigbourhood Map»
Neighbourhood Top Five
Living a day in the life of a Habsburg sauntering around the gloriously over-the-top baroque state apartments and fountain-dotted gardens of Schloss Schönbrunn.
Diving into the sensual, colour-charged imagination of Klimt at his last studio, the Klimt Villa.
Wandering in Empress Elisabeth’s footsteps at the Hermesvilla, a 19th-century mansion romantically nestled in woodland.
Being amazed by the art-nouveau grace of gold-topped Kirche am Steinhof, Otto Wagner’s magnum opus.
Enjoying the rousing melodies of Strauss and Mozart in the Orangery, Schönbrunn’s former imperial greenhouse.
Explore Schloss Schönbrunn & Around
Few sights in Vienna enthral like Schloss Schönbrunn. The vision of its imposing baroque facade, glowing like warm butter up on a sunny afternoon, is not one you are likely to forget in a hurry. You can almost picture the Habsburgs swanning around the fragrant rose beds and mythological fountains in the French-style formal gardens, which provide a harmonious backdrop for the baroque palace, a Unesco World Heritage site.
Once a hunting lodge for parties of rambunctious deer-shooting royals, Schönbrunn was destroyed during the Turkish siege of Vienna in 1683. Three years later, Emperor Leopold I enlisted the baroque whiz-kid of the age, Johann Fischer von Erlach, to restore it to its former glory. During Maria Theresia’s 40-year rule from 1740 to 1780, Schönbrunn became the centre of court life. The empress’ fondness for rococo extravagance still glitters in the palace interiors today.
Schönnbrunn is the star attraction and merits at least half a day of your time. The palace is situated in Hietzing, a laid-back neighbourhood with a village feel, which tapers out to the rambling woodland of the Lainzer Tiergarten to the west. The Klimt Villa and Otto Wagner’s gracefully domed Hofpavillon are among the district’s lesser-known treasures.
Local Life
»
Hangouts
Kick back with coffee and cake in the garden of the cute-as-a-button Pure Living Bakery (Click here). Or quaff microbrews in the tree-shaded courtyard of Brandauers Schlossbräu (Click here).
»
Walks
Give the crowds the slip and head west to hike, jog or cycle in the vast, wooded expanse of the Lainzer Tiergarten (Click here), where deer can often be spotted darting out of the forest.
»
Quiet Moments
Calm the pace with time for quiet reflection at Hietzinger Friedhof (Click here), the final resting place of Klimt, Moser and Wagner.
Getting There & Away
»
U-Bahn
Schönbrunn is well connected to central Vienna by subway, with the green U4 line stopping at Schönbrunn and Hietzing.
»
Tram
Alternatively, tram 58 makes the short hop from the Westbahnhof station to Schönbrunn.
GÜNTER LENZ / IMAGEBROKER ©
TOP SIGHT
SCHLOSS SCHÖNBRUNN
The pomp and ceremony of the Habsburg Empire is revealed in all its frescoed, gilded, chandelier-lit glory in the wondrously ornate apartments of Schloss Schönbrunn, which are among Europe’s best-preserved baroque interiors. Audio guides give you the inside scoop on the palace’s history, with titbits about Empress Elisabeth’s slim-fast regimes and the first public performance of wunderkind Mozart. Of the 1441 rooms within the palace, 40 are open to the public.
State Apartments
The frescoed
Blue Staircase
makes a regal ascent to the palace’s upper level. First up are the 19th-century apartments of Emperor Franz Joseph I and his beloved wife Elisabeth, a beauty praised for her size-zero waist and cascading tresses. The tour whisks you through lavishly stuccoed, chandelier-lit apartments such as the
Billiard Room
where army officials would pot a few balls while waiting to attend an audience, and Franz Joseph’s
study, where the emperor worked tirelessly from 5am. The iron bedstead and washstand for morning ablutions in his bedroom reveal his devout, highly disciplined nature.
Empress Elisabeth, or ‘Sisi’ as she is fondly nicknamed, whiled away many an hour penning poetry in the ruby-red
Stairs Cabinet, and brushing her ankle-length locks in her
dressing room. Blue-and-white silk wall hangings adorn the
imperial bedroom
that Franz and Sisi shared. The neo-rococo
Empress’ Salon
features portraits of some of Maria Theresia’s 16 children, including Marie Antoinette in hunting garb, then oblivious to her ending at the guillotine in 1793. Laid with leaded crystal and fragile porcelain, the table in the
Marie Antoinette Room
is where Franz Joseph used to dig into hearty meals of goulash and schnitzel; figure-watching Sisi used to skip most family meals.
More portraits of Maria Theresia’s brood fill the
Children’s Room
and the
Balcony Room, graced with works by court painter Martin van Meytens. Keep an eye out for the one of ill-fated daughter Maria Elisabeth, considered a rare beauty before she contracted smallpox. The disease left her so disfigured that all hope of finding a husband vanished, and she entered convent life.
In the exquisite white-and-gold
Mirror Room, a six-year-old Mozart performed for a rapturous Maria Theresia in 1762. According to his father Leopold, ‘Wolferl leapt onto Her Majesty’s lap, threw his arms around her neck and planted kisses on her face.’ Fairest of all, however, is the 40m-long
Great Gallery, where the Habsburgs threw balls and banquets, a frothy vision of stucco, mirrors and gilt chandeliers, topped with a fresco by Italian artist Gregorio Guglielmi showing the glorification of Maria Theresia’s reign. Decor aside, this was where the famous meeting between John F Kennedy and Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev took place in 1961.
Wandering through the porcelain-crammed
Chinese Cabinets
brings you to the equestrian fanfare of the
Carousel Room
and the
Hall of Ceremonies, with five monumental paintings showing the marriage of Joseph, heir to the throne, to Isabella of Parma in 1760. Mozart, only four at the time of the wedding, was added as an afterthought by the artist, who took several years to complete the picture, by which time the virtuoso was a rising star.
If you have a Grand Tour ticket, you can continue through to the palace’s
east wing. Franz Stephan’s apartments begin in the sublime
Blue Chinese Salon, where the intricate floral wall paintings are done on Chinese rice paper. The jewel-box
pietra dura
tables, inlaid with semi-precious stones, are stellar examples of Florentine craftsmanship. The negotiations that led to the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918 were held here. Napoleon chose Schönbrunn as his HQ when he occupied Vienna in 1805 and 1809 and the
Napoleon Room
was most likely where he dreamed about which country to conquer next. Look for the portrait of his only legitimate son, the Duke of Reichstadt, shown as a cherubic lad in the park at Laxenburg Palace.
Passing through the exquisite rosewood
Millions Room, the
Gobelin Salon, filled with Flemish tapestries, and the
Red Salon
brimming with Habsburg portraits, you reach Maria Theresia’s
bedroom, with a throne-like red velvet and gold embroidered four-poster bed. This is where Franz Joseph was born in 1830. Gilt-framed portraits of the Habsburgs hang on the red-damask walls of Archduke Franz Karl’s
study, and the tour concludes in the
Hunting Room, with paintings noting Schönbrunn’s origins as a hunting lodge.
Schloss Schönbrunn Gardens
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The beautifully tended formal
gardens
(
6am-dusk Apr-Oct, 6.30am-dusk Nov-Mar)
F
of the palace, arranged in the French style, are a symphony of colour in the summer and a combination of greys and browns in winter; all seasons are appealing in their own right. The grounds, which were opened to the public by Joseph II in 1779, hide a number of attractions in the tree-lined avenues that were arranged according to a grid and star-shaped system between 1750 and 1755. From 1772 to 1780 Ferdinand Hetzendorf added some of the final touches to the park under the instructions of Joseph II: fake
Roman ruins
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in 1778; the
Neptunbrunnen
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(Neptune Fountain), a riotous ensemble from Greek mythology, in 1781; and the crowning glory, the
Gloriette
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(adult/child €3/2.20;
9am-btwn 4pm & 7pm, closed early Nov-late Mar)
in 1775. The view from the Gloriette, looking back towards the palace with Vienna shimmering in the distance, ranks among the best in Vienna. It’s possible to venture onto its roof, but the view is only marginally superior.
The original
Schöner Brunnen, from which the palace gained its name, now pours through the stone pitcher of a nymph near the Roman ruins. The garden’s 630m-long
Irrgarten
(Maze; adult/child €4.50/2.50;
9am-btwn 5pm & 7pm, closed early Nov-late Mar)
is a classic hedge design based on the original maze that occupied its place from 1720 to 1892; adjoining this is the
Labyrinth
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP, a playground with games, climbing equipment and a giant mirror kaleidoscope.
Palmenhouse
ALLAN BAXTER / GETTY IMAGES ©
To the east of the palace is the
Kronprinzengarten
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(Crown Prince Garden; adult/child €3/2.20;
9am-btwn 4pm & 6pm, closed early Nov-late Mar), a replica of the baroque garden that occupied the space around 1750.
Kindermuseum
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Schönbrunn’s
Children’s Museum
(www.schoenbrunn.at; 13, Schloss Schönbrunn; adult/child €7/5.50;
10am-5pm Sat & Sun;
)
does what it knows best: imperialism. Activities and displays help kids discover the day-to-day life of the Habsburg court, and once they’ve got the idea, they can don princely or princessly outfits and start ordering the serfs (parents) around. Other rooms devoted to toys, natural science and archaeology all help to keep them entertained.
Guided tours
in German are a regular feature, departing at 10.30am, 1.30pm and 3pm (in English by appointment only).
Wagenburg
The
Wagenburg
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(Imperial Coach Collection; www.kaiserliche-wagenburg.at; 13, Schloss Schönbrunn; adult/under 19yr €6/free;
9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar)
is
Pimp My Ride
imperial style. On display is a vast array of carriages, including Emperor Franz Stephan’s coronation carriage, with its ornate gold plating, Venetian glass panes and painted cherubs. The whole thing weighs an astonishing 4000kg. Also look for the
dainty child’s carriage built for Napoleon’s son, with eagle-wing-shaped mudguards and bee motifs.
SIGHTS
SCHLOSS SCHÖNBRUNN
PALACE
See
Click here.
KLIMT VILLA
HOUSE MUSEUM
(www.klimtvilla.at; 13, Feldmühlgasse 11; adult/child €10/8, guided tour €2;
10am-6pm Tue, Fri & Sat Feb–mid-Jul & mid-Aug–Oct;
Unter St Veit)
The Klimt Villa immerses you in the sensual world of Vienna’s most famous Secessionist. Set in landscaped grounds in a leafy corner of Hietzing, the 1920s neo-baroque villa was built on and around the site of the artist’s last studio (1911 to 1918), which opened to the public in September 2012 following a complete makeover.
Standouts include Moritz Nähr’s original photos of the studio and garden, carefully reproduced furnishings, carpets, prints and paintings, as well as Klimt’s sketches of models. Just as special is the intimate atmosphere of strolling through the painter’s one-time house and gardens. With a little imagination you can still picture gorgeous dames swanning around here draped in flowing robes, as depicted in portraits such as
Adele Bloch-Bauer II
and
Frederike Beer,
which Klimt painted here. Guided tours take place at 2pm on Saturdays.
TECHNISCHES MUSEUM
MUSEUM
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(www.technischesmuseum.at; 14, Mariahilfer Strasse 212; adult/under 19yr €10/free;
9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun;
;
Schönbrunn,
52, 58 Winckelmannstrasse)
Opened in 1918, the Technical Museum is dedicated to advances in the fields of science and technology. There are loads of hands-on gadgets allowing you to conduct experiments, but the most interesting aspect of the museum is its displays from past ages. A Mercedes Silver Arrow from 1950, a model-T Ford from 1923 and penny-farthing bicycles to name a few.
Its musical instrument collection is small and focuses mainly on keyboard instruments, so if this is your main interest, head for the Neue Burg museums instead. The permanent exhibition is complemented by temporary ones, and overall it’s an interesting museum for the average visitor, but of course anyone with an engineering mind will absolutely love it. Das Mini section has loads of kids toys and activities and is specifically aimed at two- to six-year-olds.
HOFPAVILLON HIETZING
LANDMARK
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(www.wienmuseum.at; 13, Schönbrunner Strasse;
Hietzing)
Built between 1898 and 1899 by Otto Wagner as part of the public transport system, the Hofpavillon Hietzing was originally designed as a private station for the imperial court. The regal wood-panelled interior was designed by Wagner in conjunction with Josef Olbrich. Its white facade, decorated with wrought ironwork, is easily spotted just east of the U4 Hietzing stop.
It is in poor shape and was closed for renovation at the time of writing.
HIETZINGER FRIEDHOF
CEMETERY
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(www.friedhoefewien.at; 13, Maxingstrasse 15;
8am-dusk;
Hietzing)
F
Aficionados of Vienna’s Secessionist movement will want to make the pilgrimage to the Hietzinger cemetery to pay homage to some of its greatest members. Klimt, Moser and Wagner are all buried here. Others buried in the cemetery include Engelbert Dollfuss, leader of the Austro-Fascists, assassinated in 1934, and composer Alban Berg.
WORTH A DETOUR
LAINZER TIERGARTEN
At 25 sq km, the
Lainzer Tiergarten
(www.lainzer-tiergarten.at; 13, Hermesstrasse;
8am-dusk;
60B Hermesstrasse,
60 Hermesstrasse)
F
is the largest (and wildest) of Vienna’s city parks. The ‘zoo’ refers to the abundant wild boar, deer, woodpeckers and squirrels that freely inhabit the densely forested park, and the famous Lipizzaner horses that summer here. Opened by Emperor Ferdinand I in 1561, the park was once the hunting ground of Habsburg royalty. Today it offers extensive walking possibilities through lush woodlands of beech and oak, as well as attractions like the
Hubertus-Warte
(508m), a viewing platform on top of Kaltbründlberg.
On the eastern edge of the park sits the stately
Hermesvilla
(www.wienmuseum.at; 13, Lainzer Tiergarten; adult/under 19yr €6/free;
10am-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Mar–early Nov;
60B Hermesstrasse,
60 Hermesstrasse), commissioned by Franz Josef I and presented to his wife as a gift. It is named after the white marble statue of Hermes, which guards the garden in front of the palace. Built by Karl von Hasenauer between 1882 and 1886, with Klimt and Makart on board as interior decorators, the villa is plush – it’s more a mansion than simply a ‘villa.’ Empress Elisabeth’s bedroom is totally over the top, with the walls and ceiling covered in motifs from Shakespeare’s
A Midsummer Night’s Dream
. A visit also takes in the room where Elisabeth, or ‘Sisi’, used to exercise rigorously in order to keep her famous 16-inch waist.
EATING
PURE LIVING BAKERY
CAFE
€
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(www.purelivingbakery.com; 13, Altgasse 12; cakes & snacks €3.50-6.50;
9.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun;
;
Hietzing)
Inspired by her time in the USA, sweet-toothed traveller Kirsten has brought the laid-back mood and food of a NYC deli to Vienna. Decked out with surfboards and coffee sacks, wicker chairs and holiday snapshots, this living room of a cafe is the place to unwind over a freshly toasted bagel and chocolate-drizzled cinnamon roll.
Pot plants and pink and blue deckchairs lend a personal touch to the pretty garden, where you can easily while away a sunny afternoon reading a magazine, sipping a shake and nibbling on locally baked goodies like deep-filled apple pie, banana bread and giant cookies.
MAFIOSI
PIZZERIA
€
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(
892 72 28; www.pizzeria-mafiosi.at; 15, Reindorfgasse 15; pizza €3.20-5.50;
11am-midnight;
Gumpendorfer Strasse)
According to its strapline, Mafiosi rustles up ‘Vienna’s best, biggest and cheapest pizzas.’ While it’s a tall claim, you can believe some of the hype. The woody Naples-meets-Alpine-chalet interior is an inviting setting for authentic pizzas, which start at a wallet-friendly €3.20. Add that to cheap booze (€2 for a beer) and you can see why students love the place.
QUELL
AUSTRIAN
€€
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(
893 24 07; www.gasthausquell.at; 15, Reindorfgasse 19; mains €7-15;
11am-midnight Mon-Fri;
;
Gumpendorfer Strasse)
Time stands still at Quell, a traditional
Beisl
in suburban Rudolfsheim-Fünfhaus. The wood-panelled interior looks untouched for years, the archaic wooden chandeliers and ceramic stoves wouldn’t be out of place in a folklore museum, and some guests look as though they’ve been frequenting the place for decades. The menu is thoroughly Viennese, with goulash, pork cutlets and schnitzel featuring heavily.
That said, there is also a surprising number of fish and vegetarian options. Genial staff and quiet streetside seating add to the attractions.
HOLLEREI
VEGETARIAN
€€
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(
892 33 56; www.hollerei.at; 15, Hollergasse 9; lunch menus €7.50-11, mains €14-15.50;
11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm Mon-Sat, 11.30am-3pm Sun;
;
Meidling Hauptstrasse, Schönbrunn)
Located a 10-minute walk from Schloss Schönbrunn, this wood-panelled, all-
vegetarian bistro does a fine line in seasonal salads, soups and pasta dishes. Whether you go for dhal, homemade spinach gnocchi with sun-dried tomatoes or red Thai curry with almond rice, the wholesome food here bursts with freshness. See the website for details on the monthly cookery course (€25).
BRANDAUERS SCHLOSSBRÄU
AUSTRIAN
€€
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(
879 59 70; www.bierig.at; 13, Am Platz 5; mains €9-16;
10am-1am;
;
Hietzing)
This microbrewery in the Viennese mould rolls out hoppy house brews, speciality beers (including an organic one) and decent pub grub. Famous spare ribs served with lashings of potatoes feature alongside vegetarian options and the usual hearty suspects like goulash, cheese-laden dumplings and schnitzel. The €8.50 lunch buffet represents great value. Sit in the leafy courtyard when the sun’s out.
8
TICKETS FOR SCHLOSS SCHÖNBRUNN
If you plan to see several sights at Schönbrunn, it’s worth purchasing one of the combined tickets. Prices vary according to whether it’s summer season (April to October) or winter. The best way to get a ticket is to buy it in advance online. Print the ticket yourself and present it when you enter.
The summer season
Classic Pass
(adult/under 19yr €18/11) is valid for a grand tour of Schloss Schönbrunn and visits to the Kronprinzengarten (Crown Prince Garden), Irrgarten (Maze) & Labyrinth, Gloriette with viewing terrace, and
Hofbackstube Schönbrunn
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(Court Bakery Schönbrunn;
24 100-300; per person €8.90;
10am-5pm, shows on the hr, mid-Mar–Oct)
with the chance to watch apple strudel being made and the opportunity to enjoy the result with a cup of coffee. A
Classic Pass ‘light’
(adult/under 19yr €14/9.50) excludes the Apple Strudel Show. The Court Bakery Schönbrunn can be viewed separately (it’s inside Café Residenz).
The summer
Gold Pass
(adult/under 19yr €36/18) includes the Grand Tour, Crown Prince Garden, Tiergarten, Palmenhaus, Wüstenhaus, Wagenburg, Gloriette, Maze & Labyrinth and Court Bakery Schönbrunn.
The
Winter Pass
(adult/under 19yr €25/12) includes the Grand Tour, Tiergarten, Palmenhaus, Wüstenhaus, Wagenburg, Gloriette and Maze & Labyrinth.
DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
CAFÉ GLORIETTE
COFFEE
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(www.gloriette-cafe.at; 13, Gloriette;
9am-dusk;
Schönbrunn, Hietzing)
Café Gloriette occupies the neoclassical Gloriette, high on a hill behind Schloss Schönbrunn, built for the pleasure of Maria Theresia in 1775. With sweeping views of the Schloss, its magnificent gardens and the districts to the north, Gloriette has arguably one of the best vistas in all of Vienna. It’s a welcome pit stop after the short climb up the hill.
AIDA
CAFE
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(13, Maxingstrasse 1;
9am-7pm;
Hietzing)
Just a short amble from the Hietzing Gate to Schloss Schönbrunn, this cafe is a fine spot to escape the crowds, sip a
Melange
and dig into delectable pastries, tortes and cakes after a visit to the palace.
LOSCH
GAY
(www.club-losch.at; 15, Fünfhausgasse 1;
10pm-2am Fri & Sat;
Gumpendorfer Strasse)
This leather-fetish bar is normally strictly men only, but occasionally it hosts unisex parties on Saturday nights. Lo:sch sometimes opens during the week for special events.
U4
CLUB
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(www.u-4.at; 12, Schönbrunner Strasse 222;
8pm-late Mon, 10pm-late Tue-Sun;
Meidling Hauptstrasse)
U4 was the birthplace of techno clubbing in Vienna way back when, and its longevity is a testament to its ability to roll with the times. A fairly young, studenty crowd are its current regulars, and while the music isn’t as cutting edge as it used to be, it still manages to please the masses.
WORTH A DETOUR
AMAZING ART NOUVEAU GRACE
Perched on the crest of the Baumgartner Höhe in Vienna’s 14th district,
Kirche am Steinhof
(
910 60-11 204; 14, Baumgartner Höhe 1; admission €2, tours €8;
4-5pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun, tours 3-4pm Sat, 4-5pm Sun;
47A, 48A Baumgartner Höhe), built from 1904 to 1907, is the crowning glory of Otto Wagner. It’s a steepish walk up to the church, nestled in the grounds of the Psychiatric Hospital of the City of Vienna and commanding fine views of the city.
Kolo Moser chipped in with the mosaic windows, and the roof is topped by a copper-covered dome that earned the nickname
Limoniberg
(Lemon Mountain) from its original golden colour. It’s a bold statement in an asylum that has other art nouveau buildings, and it could only be pushed through by Wagner because the grounds were far from the public gaze. The church interior can only be visited by guided tour.
ENTERTAINMENT
ORANGERY
CONCERT VENUE
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(
812 50 04; www.imagevienna.com; 13, Schloss Schönbrunn; tickets €39-89;
Schönbrunn)
Schönbrunn’s lovely former imperial greenhouse is the location for year-round Mozart and Strauss concerts. Performances last around two hours and begin at 8.30pm daily.
MARIONETTEN THEATER
PUPPET THEATRE
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(
817 32 47; www.marionettentheater.at; 13, Schloss Schönbrunn; tickets full performances adult €11-35, child €8-22;
box office on performance days from 11am;
Schönbrunn)
This small theatre in Schloss Schönbrunn puts on marionette performances of the much-loved productions
The Magic Flute
(2½ hours) and
Aladdin
(1¼ hours). They’re a delight for kids young, old and in between. The puppet costumes are exceptionally ornate and eye-catching.
REIGEN
LIVE MUSIC
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(
894 00 94; www.reigen.at; 14, Hadikgasse 62;
6pm-late;
Hietzing)
Reigen’s tiny stage is the setting for jazz, blues, Latin and world music in a simple space housing rotating art and photography exhibits, so you can groove while perusing art.
SHOPPING
GOLD N’ GUITARS
MUSIC
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(13, Maxingstrasse 2;
10am-12.30pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat;
Hietzing)
This is one of a kind in Vienna: owner and guitar craftsman Michael Eipeldauer restores and sells contraguitars, also known as a
Schrammelguitar
, used for folk music, jazz and other styles – they have a standard neck and a second fretless one for bass notes. A prize piece is a Biedermeier model from the 1840s.
Expect to pay between €1600 (used) and €3500 (new). Stylish secondhand East German guitars such as models from Musima, as well as Arthur Lang jazz guitar classics, glisten on stands around the store.
