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Puglia

Puglia is comprised of sun-bleached landscapes, silver olive groves, picturesque seascapes, and memorable hilltop and coastal towns. It is a lush, largely flat farming region, skirted by a long coast that alternates between glittering limestone precipices and long sandy beaches. The heel of Italy juts into the Adriatic and Ionian Seas and the waters of both are stunningly beautiful, veering between translucent emerald green and dusky powder blue. Its extensive coastline bears the marks of many conquering invaders: the Normans, the Spanish, the Turks, the Swabians and the Greeks. Yet, despite its diverse influences, Puglia has its own distinct and authentic identity.

In a land where the cuisine is all-important, Puglia’s cucina povera (peasant cooking) is legendary. Olive oil, grapes, tomatoes, eggplants, artichokes, peppers, salami, mushrooms, olives and fresh seafood strain its table. Although boasting some of Italy’s best food and wines, in some places it’s rare to hear a foreign voice. But in July and August Puglia becomes a huge party, with sagre (festivals, usually involving food), concerts and events, and thousands of Italian tourists heading down here for their annual break.

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History

At times Puglia feels and looks Greek – and for good reason. This tangible legacy dates from when the Greeks founded a string of settlements along the Ionian coast in the 8th century BC. A form of Greek dialect (Griko) is still spoken in some towns southeast of Lecce. Historically, the major city was Taras (Taranto), settled by Spartan exiles who dominated until they were defeated by the Romans in 272 BC.

The long coastline made the region vulnerable to conquest. The Normans left their fine Romanesque churches, the Swabians their fortifications and the Spanish their flamboyant baroque buildings. No one, however, knows exactly the origins of the extraordinary 16th-century conical-roofed stone houses, the trulli, unique to Puglia.

Apart from invaders and pirates, malaria was long the greatest scourge of the south, forcing many towns to build away from the coast and into the hills. After Mussolini’s seizure of power in 1922, the south became the frontline in his ‘Battle for Wheat’. This initiative was aimed at making Italy self-sufficient when it came to food, following the sanctions imposed on the country after its conquest of Ethiopia. Puglia is now covered in wheat fields, olive groves and fruit arbours.

Bari

pop 320,200

Once regarded as the Bronx of southern Italy, Bari’s reputation has gradually improved and the city, Puglia’s capital and one of the south’s most prosperous, deserves more than a cursory glance. Spruced up and rejuvenated, Bari Vecchia, the historic old town, is an interesting and atmospheric warren of streets. In the evenings the piazzas buzz with trendy restaurants and bars, but there are still parts of the old town that carry a gritty undertone.

Dangers & Annoyances

Petty crime can be a problem, so take all of the usual precautions: don’t leave anything in your car; don’t display money or valuables; and watch out for bag-snatchers on scooters. Be careful in Bari Vecchia’s dark streets at night.

Sights

Most sights are in or near atmospheric Bari Vecchia, a medieval labyrinth of tight alleyways and graceful piazzas. It fills a small peninsula between the new port to the west and the old port to the southeast, cramming in 40 churches and more than 120 shrines.

Castello Svevo CASTLE

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(Swabian Castle; 083 184 00 09; Piazza Federico II di Svevia; admission adult/reduced €2/1; 8.30am-7.30pm Thu-Tue) The Normans originally built over the ruins of a Roman fort, then Frederick II built over the Norman castle, incorporating it into his design – the two towers of the Norman structure still stand. The bastions, with corner towers overhanging the moat, were added in the 16th century during Spanish rule, when the castle was a magnificent residence.

Basilica di San Nicola BASILICA

(www.basilicasannicola.it; Piazza San Nicola; 7am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 7am-1pm & 4-9pm Sun) One of the south’s first Norman churches, the basilica is a splendid example of Puglian-Romanesque style, built to house the relics of St Nicholas (better known as Father Christmas), which were stolen from Turkey in 1087 by local fishing folk. His remains are said to emanate a miraculous manna liquid with special powers. For this reason – and because he is also the patron saint of prisoners and children – the basilica remains an important place of pilgrimage. The interior is huge and simple with a decorative 17th-century wooden ceiling. The magnificent 13th-century ciborium over the altar is Puglia’s oldest. The shrine in the crypt, lit by hanging lamps, is beautiful.

Cathedral CATHEDRAL

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(Piazza dell’Odegitria; 8am-12.30pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-12.30pm & 5-8.30pm Sat & Sun) Built over the original Byzantine church, the 11th-century Romanesque cathedral retains its basilica plan – the plain walls punctuated with deep arcades – and the eastern window is a tangle of plant and animal motifs. Recent excavations ( €1; 12.30-4pm Sun-Wed, Apr-Oct) have revealed an ancient Christian basilica with a substantial floor mosaic featuring octopus, fish and plant motifs.

Piazza Mercantile PIAZZA

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This beautiful piazza is fronted by the Sedile, the headquarters of Bari’s Council of Nobles. In the square’s northeast corner is the Colonna della Giustizia (Column of Justice; Piazza Mercantile) , where debtors were once tied and whipped.

Festivals

Festa di San Nicola RELIGIOUS

( 7-9 May) The Festival of St Nicholas is Bari’s biggest annual shindig, celebrating the 11th-century arrival of St Nicholas’ relics from Turkey. On the first evening a procession leaves Castello Svevo for the Basilica di San Nicola. The next day there’s a deafening fly-past and a fleet of boats carries the statue of St Nicholas along the coast. The evening – and the next – ends with a massive fireworks display. It’s a jolly, crowded family affair, attended by many Russian visitors who come to view the relics.

Sleeping

Most hotel accommodation here tends to be bland and overpriced, aimed at business clientele: B&Bs are generally a better option.

Santa Maria del Buon Consiglio B&B $

( 0388 1063436; www.santamariadelbuonconsiglio.com; Via Forno Santa Scolastica 1-3; s €35-70, d €60-100, tr €85-90; ) A graciously hosted B&B in the heart of old Bari near the port. Rooms have rough-cast stone walls and four-poster beds with drapes.

B&B Casa Pimpolini B&B $

( 080 521 99 38; www.casapimpolini.com; Via Calefati 249; s €45-60, d €70-80; ) This lovely B&B in the new town is within easy walking distance to shops, restaurants and Bari Vecchia. The rooms are warm and welcoming, and the homemade breakfast is a treat. Great value.

Villa Romanazzi Carducci HOTEL $$$

( 080 542 74 00; www.villaromanazzi.com; Via Capruzzi 326; d €79; ) The one hotel in Bari daring to show some flare, the Villa Romanazzi is housed in the pastel pink, 19th-century Villa Rachele. Rooms are a mixture of old and new, although the decor in the villa rooms is more characterful. Add to this an enormous fitness centre, pool and huge verdant park and this is probably Bari’s best hotel.

Eating & Drinking

Terranima PUGLIAN $

( 080 521 97 25; www.terranima.com; Via Putignani 215; meals €8-15; 7-11pm Mon-Sat, lunch Sun) Peep through the lace curtains into the cool interior of this rustic trattoria where worn flagstone floors and period furnishings make you feel like you’re dining in someone’s front room. The menu features earthy offerings like capocollo (thin slices of lard), potatoes and cardoncelli mushrooms, and sporcamusi (lemon custard in filo pastry).

Paglionico Vini e Cucina OSTERIA $

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( 338 212 03 91; Strada Vallisa 23; meals €10; lunch & dinner) Run by the same family for more than a century, this boisterous osteria (casual eatery) chalks up its daily specials of well-prepared and filling Puglian dishes. Grab a seat in the brick-flanked tunnel of a dining room and wait (and wait) to be served by the impressively indefatigable waiter.

Caffè Borghese CAFE $

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( 080 524 21 56; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 22; dishes €6-10; 8am-2am Tue-Sun) You’ll experience genuine hospitality and friendly service in this small cafe. Its understated charm and simple dishes will have you returning for breakfast, lunch and aperitivi (predinner drinks with snacks).

La Locanda di Federico PUGLIAN $$

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( 080 522 77 05; www.lalocandadifederico.com; Piazza Mercantile 63-64; meals €30; lunch & dinner) With domed ceilings, archways and medieval-style artwork on the walls, this restaurant oozes atmosphere. The menu is typical Puglian, the food delicious and the price reasonable. Orecchiette con le cime di rape (‘little ears’ pasta with turnip tops) is highly recommended.

Barcollo BAR

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( 080 521 38 89; Piazza Mercantile 69/70; cocktails €7; 8am-3am) Sit outside on the twinkling square sipping a cocktail and nibbling work-of-art hors d’oeuvres. Incongruously, you’ll be gazing at the ‘column of justice’, to which debtors were once tied and lashed.

Shopping

Designer shops and the main Italian chains line Via Sparano da Bari, while delis and gourmet food shops are located throughout the city.

Il Salumaio FOOD

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( 080 521 93 45; www.ilsalumaio.it; Via Piccinni 168; 8.30am-2pm & 5.30-9.30pm Mon-Sat) Breathe in the delicious scents of fine regional produce at this venerable delicatessen.

Enoteca Vinarius de Pasquale WINE

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( 080 521 31 92; Via Marchese di Montrone 87; 8am-2pm & 4-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Stock up on Puglian wines such as Primitivo di Manduria at this gorgeous old shop, founded in 1911.

Information

From Piazza Aldo Moro, in front of the main train station, streets heading north will take you to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, which separates the old and new parts of the city.

CTS ( 080 521 88 73; Via Garruba 65-67) Good for student travel and discount flights.

Hospital ( 080 559 11 11; Piazza Cesare)

Morfimare Travel Agency ( 080 578 98 26, booking office 080 578 98 11; www.morfimare.it; Corso de Tullio 36-40) Ferry bookings.

Police Station ( 080 529 11 11; Via Murat 4)

Post Office (Piazza Umberto I 33/8)

Tourist Office ( 080 990 93 41; www.viaggiareinpuglia.it; 1st fl, Piazza Moro 33a; 8.30am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) There is also an information kiosk ( 9am-7pm May-Sep) in front of the train station in Piazza Aldo Moro.

Getting There & Away

Air

Bari’s Palese airport (www.aeroportidipuglia.it) is served by a host of international and budget airlines, including British Airways, Alitalia and Ryanair.

Pugliairbus (http://pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it) connects the airports of Bari, Brindisi, Taranto and Foggia. It also has a service from Bari airport to Matera (€5, 1¼ hours, three daily), and to Vieste (€20, 3½ hours, four daily May to September).

Boat

Ferries run from Bari to Albania, Croatia, Greece and Montenegro. All boat companies have offices at the ferry terminal, accessible on bus 20 from the main train station. Fares vary considerably among companies and it’s easier to book with a travel agent such as Morfimare (Click here ).

The main companies and their routes are as follows:

Jadrolinija (www.jadrolinija.hr)

Montenegro Lines ( 382 3031 1164; www.montenegrolines.net) To Bar in Montenegro; Cephalonia, Corfu, Igoumenitsa in Greece; and Durrës in Albania.

Superfast ( 080 528 28 28; www.superfast.com) To Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patras in Greece. Depart at 7pm or 8pm depending on the route.

Ventouris Ferries ( for Albania 080 521 27 56, for Greece 080 521 76 99; www.ventouris.gr) Regular ferries to Corfu and Igoumenitsa (Greece) and daily ferries to Durrës (Albania).

Bus

Intercity buses leave from three main locations. From Via Capruzzi, south of the main train station, SITA ( 080 579 01 11; www.sitabus.it) covers local destinations. Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane ( 080 572 52 29; http://ferrovieappulolucane.it) buses serving Matera (€4.50, 1¼ hours, six daily) also depart from here, as do Marozzi ( 080 556 24 46; www.marozzivt.it) buses for Rome (from €33.50, eight hours, eight daily – note that the overnight bus departs from Piazza Moro) and other long-distance destinations.

Buses operated by Ferrovie del Sud-Est (FSE; 080 546 21 11; www.fseonline.it) leave from Largo Ciaia, south of Piazza Aldo Moro and service the following locations:

Alberobello (€3.90, 1¼ hours, hourly) Continues to Locorotondo (€5, 1 hour 35 minutes) and Martina Franca (€5, 1 hour 50 minutes)

Grotte di Castellana (€2.60, one hour, five daily)

Taranto (€7.50, 1¾ to 2¼ hours, frequent)

Train

A web of train lines spreads out from Bari. Note that there are fewer services on the weekend.

From the main train station ( 080 524 43 86) trains go to Puglia and beyond:

Brindisi (from €14, one hour, hourly)

Foggia (from €19, one hour, hourly)

Milan (from €77.50, about eight hours, every four hours)

Rome (from €50, four hours, every four hours)

Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane serves two main destinations:

Matera (€4.50, 1½ hours, 12 daily)

Potenza (€9.50, four hours, four daily)

FSE trains leave from the station in Via Oberdan – cross under the train tracks south of Piazza Luigi di Savoia and head east along Via Capruzzi for about 500m. They serve the following towns:

Alberobello €4.50, 1½ hours, hourly

Martina Franca €5, two hours, hourly

Taranto from €7.50, 2½ hours, nine daily

Getting Around

Central Bari is compact – a 15-minute walk will take you from Piazza Aldo Moro to the old town. For the ferry terminal take bus 20 from Piazza Moro (€1.50).

Street parking is migraine-inducing. There’s a large parking area (€1) south of the main port entrance; otherwise, there’s a large multistorey car park between the main train station and the FSE station. Another car park is on Via Zuppetta opposite Hotel Adria.

To/From the Airport

For the airport, take the Tempesta shuttle bus (€4, 30 minutes, hourly) from the main train station, with pick-ups at Piazza Garibaldi and the corner of Via Andrea da Bari and Via Calefati. Alternatively, normal city bus 16 covers the same route and a trip is much cheaper (€1), though marginally slower (40 minutes). A taxi trip from the airport to town costs around €24.

Around Bari

The Terra di Bari, or ‘land of Bari’, surrounding the capital is rich in olive groves and orchards, and the region has an impressive architectural history with some magnificent cathedrals, an extensive network of castles along its coastline, charming seaside towns like Trani and Polignano a Mare, and the mysterious inland Castel del Monte.

Trani

pop 53,900

Known as the ‘Pearl of Puglia’, beautiful Trani has a sophisticated feel, particularly in summer when well-heeled visitors pack the array of marinaside bars. The marina is the place to promenade and watch the white yachts and fishing boats in the harbour, while the historic centre, with its medieval churches, glossy limestone streets and faded yet charming palazzi (mansions) is an enchanting area to explore. But it’s the cathedral, pale against the deep-blue sea, that is the town’s most arresting sight.

Sights

Cathedral CATHEDRAL

(Piazza del Duomo; 9am-12.30pm & 3-6.30pm) The dramatic seafront cathedral is dedicated to St Nicholas the Pilgrim, famous for being foolish. The Greek Christian wandered through Puglia, crying ‘ Kyrie eleison’ (Greek for ‘Lord, have mercy’). First thought to be a simpleton, he was revered after his death (aged 19) after several miracles attributed to him occurred.

Construction of the cathedral started in 1097 on the site of a Byzantine church and completed in the 13th century. The magnificent original bronze doors (now displayed inside) were cast by Barisano da Trani, an accomplished 12th-century artisan.

The interior of the cathedral reflects typical Norman simplicity and is lined by colonnades. Near the main altar are the remains of a 12th-century floor mosaic, stylistically similar to that in Otranto. Below the church is the crypt, a forest of ancient columns where the bones of St Nicholas are kept beneath the altar. You can also visit the campanile (bell tower; admission €3) .

Castle CASTLE

( 0883 50 66 03; www.castelloditrani.beniculturali.it; Piazza Manfredi 16; admission €3; 8.30am-7.30pm) Two hundred metres north of the cathedral is Trani’s other major landmark, the vast, almost modernist Swabian castle built by Frederick II in 1233. Charles V later strengthened the fortifications; it was used as a prison from 1844 to 1974.

Ognissanti Church CHURCH

(Via Ognissanti; hours vary) Built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century, this church is where Norman knights swore allegiance to Bohemond I of Antioch, their leader, before setting off on the First Crusade.

Scolanova Church CHURCH

( 0883 48 17 99; Via Scolanova 23; hours vary) This church was one of four former synagogues in the ancient Jewish quarter, all of which were converted to churches in the 14th century. Inside is a beautiful Byzantine painting of Madonna dei Martiri.

Sleeping

Albergo Lucy HOTEL $

( 0883 48 10 22; www.albergolucy.com; Piazza Plebiscito 11; d/tr/q from €65/85/105; ) Located in a restored 17th-century palazzo overlooking a leafy square and close to the shimmering port, this family-run place oozes charm. Bike hire and guided tours available. Great value: it doesn’t serve breakfast, but there are plenty of cafes a short stroll away.

B&B Centro Storico Trani B&B $

( 0883 50 61 76; www.bbtrani.it; Via Leopardi 28; s €35-50, d €50-70, tr €70-80, q €85-100, quint €100-125) This simple, old-fashioned B&B inhabits an old backstreet monastery and is run by an elderly couple. It’s basic, but the rooms are large and ‘Mama’ makes a mean crostata (jam tart).

Hotel Regia HOTEL $$

( 0883 58 44 44; www.hotelregia.it; Piazza del Duomo 2; s €120-130, d €130-150; ) A lone building facing the cathedral, the understated grandeur of 18th-century Palazzo Filisio houses this charming hotel. Rooms are sober and stylish.

Eating

Corteinfiore SEAFOOD $$

( 0883 50 84 02; www.corteinfiore.it; Via Ognissanti 18; meals €30; Tue-Sun) Romantic, urbane, refined. The wooden decking, buttercup-yellow tablecloths and marquee-conservatory setting are refreshing. The wines are excellent and the cooking delicious. It also has modern and attractive rooms (from €100) decked out in pale colours.

La Darsena SEAFOOD $$

( 0883 48 73 33; Via Statuti Marittimi 98; meals €30; Tue-Sun) Renowned for its seafood, swish La Darsena is housed in a waterfront palazzo . Outside tables overlook the port while inside photos of old Puglia cover the walls beneath a huge wrought-iron dragon chandelier.

Information

From the train station, Via Cavour leads through Piazza della Repubblica to Piazza Plebiscito and the public gardens. Turn left for the harbour and cathedral.

Tourist Office ( 0883 58 88 30; www.traniweb.it; 1st fl, Palazzo Palmieri, Piazza Trieste 10; 8.30am-1.30pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 8:30am-1:30pm & 3.30-5.30pm Tue & Thu) Located 200m south of the cathedral.

Getting There & Away

STP ( 0883 49 18 00; www.stpspa.it) has frequent bus services to Bari (€3.90, 45 minutes). Services depart from Bar Stazione (Piazza XX Settembre 23) , which also has timetables and tickets.

Trani is on the main train line between Bari (€4.40, 40 to 60 minutes, frequent) and Foggia (€9.50, one hour, frequent).

Castel del Monte

You’ll see Castel del Monte ( 0883 56 99 97; www.casteldelmonte.beniculturali.it; adult/reduced €5/2.50; 9am-6pm Oct-Feb, 10.15am-7.45pm Mar-Sep) , an unearthly geometric shape on a hilltop, from miles away. Mysterious and perfectly octagonal, it’s one of southern Italy’s most talked-about landmarks and a Unesco World Heritage Site.

No one knows why Frederick II built it – there’s no nearby town or strategic crossroads. It was not built to defend anything, as it has no moat or drawbridge, no arrow slits and no trapdoors for pouring boiling oil on invaders.

Some theories claim that, according to mid-13th-century beliefs in geometric symbolism, the octagon represented the union of the circle and square, of God-perfection (the infinite) and human-perfection (the finite). The castle was therefore nothing less than a celebration of the relationship between humanity and God.

The castle has eight octagonal towers. Its interconnecting rooms have decorative marble columns and fireplaces, and the doorways and windows are framed in corallite stone. Many of the towers have washing rooms with what are thought to be Europe’s first flush loos – Frederick II, like the Arab world he admired, set great store by cleanliness.

It’s difficult to reach here by public transport. By car, it’s about 35km from Trani.

Polignano a Mare

Dip into this spectacularly positioned small town if you can. Located around 34km south of Bari on the S16 coastal road, Polignano a Mare is built on the edge of a craggy ravine pockmarked with caves. The town is thought to be one of the most important ancient settlements in Puglia and was later inhabited by successive invaders ranging from the Huns to the Normans.

Sights & Activities

On Sunday the logge (balconies) are crowded with day trippers from Bari who come here to view the crashing waves, visit the caves and crowd out the cornetterias (shops specialising in Italian croissants) in the atmospheric centro storico . There are several baroque churches, an imposing Norman monastery and the medieval Porta Grande , which was the only access to the historic centre until the 18th century. You can still see the holes that activated the heavy drawbridge and the openings from where boiling oil was poured onto any unwelcome visitors to town.

Several operators organise boat trips to the grottoes, including Dorino ( 329 6465 904) , costing around €20 per person.

Sleeping & Eating

B&B Santo Stefano B&B $

(www.santostefano.info; Vico Santo Stefano 9-13; d €69-99; ) Six attractive rooms located in an ancient tower in the old part of Polignano, complete with tufa walls, antique furniture and bright bathrooms.

Antiche Mura PUGLIAN $$

( 080 424 24 76; www.ristoranteantichemura.it; Via Roma 11; meals €20-35) This delightful little restaurant features a vaulted cavelike interior with lanterns and bells adorning the walls. Unsurprisingly, fish is a speciality, with sea bass, octopus and lobster on the menu.

Getting There & Away

Although there is a twice-daily bus service from Bari, your own car is the best way to reach Polignano.

Promontorio del Gargano

The coast surrounding the promontory seems permanently bathed in a pink-hued, pearly light, providing a painterly contrast to the sea, which softens from intense to powder blue as the evening draws in. It’s one of Italy’s most beautiful areas, encompassing white limestone cliffs, fairy-tale grottoes, sparkling sea, ancient forests, rare orchids and tangled, fragrant maquis. Once connected to what is now Dalmatia (in Croatia), the ‘spur’ of the Italian boot has more in common with the land mass across the sea than with the rest of Italy. Creeping urbanisation was halted in 1991 by the creation of the Parco Nazionale del Gargano . Aside from its magnificent national park, the Gargano is home to pilgrimage sites and the lovely seaside towns of Vieste and Peschici.

Along the coast you’ll spot strange cat’s-cradle wood-and-rope arrangements, unique to the area. These are trabucchi, ancient fishing traps (possibly Phoenician in origin) from which fishing folk cast their nets, ‘walk the plank’ and haul in their catch.

Vieste

pop 13,900

Vieste is an attractive whitewashed town jutting off the Gargano’s easternmost promontory into the Adriatic Sea. It’s the Gargano capital and sits above the area’s most spectacular beach, a gleaming wide strip backed by sheer white cliffs and overshadowed by the towering rock monolith, Scoglio di Pizzomunno . It’s packed in summer and ghostly quiet in winter.

Sights

Vieste is primarily a beach resort, though the steep alleys of the old town make for an atmospheric wander. The castle built by Frederick II is occupied by the military and closed to the public.

Chianca Amara HISTORIC SITE

(Bitter Stone; Via Cimaglia) Vieste’s most gruesome sight is this stone where thousands were beheaded when Turks sacked Vieste in the 16th century.

Museo Malacologico MUSEUM

( 0884 70 76 88; Via Pola 8; 9.30am-12.30pm & 4-8pm, to 10pm Apr-Oct) This impressive shell museum has four rooms of fossils and molluscs, some enormous and all beautifully patterned and coloured.

Cathedral CATHEDRAL

(Via Duomo) Built by the Normans on the ruins of a Vesta temple, the cathedral is in Puglian-Romanesque style with a fanciful tower that resembles a cardinal’s hat. It was rebuilt in 1800.

La Salata HISTORIC SITE

(adult/child €4/free; 5.30pm & 6.30pm Mon, Wed & Fri Jun; 5.30pm & 6.30pm Mon-Fri Jul & Aug; 4pm & 4.45pm Mon, Wed & Fri Sep; on request Oct-May) This palaeo-Christian graveyard dating from the 4th to 6th centuries AD is 9km out of town. Inside the cave, tier upon tier of narrow tombs are cut into the rock wall; others form shallow niches in the cave floor. Guided tours are essential. Book with Agenzia Sinergie ( 338 840 62 15; www.agenziasinergie.com) , which can also arrange customised tours of the Gargano.

Activities

Superb sandy beaches surround the town: in the south are Spiagga del Castello, Cala San Felice and Cala Sanguinaria; due north, head for the area known as La Salata. Diving is popular around the promontory’s rocky coastline, which is filled with marine grottoes.

From May to September fast boats zoom to the Isole Tremiti (Click here ).

Boat hire and tours can be arranged at the port.

Centro Ormeggi e Sub BOATING

( 0884 70 79 83) Offers diving courses and rents out sailing boats and motorboats.

Tours

Agenzia Sol GUIDED TOUR

( 0884 70 15 58; www.solvieste.it; Via Trepiccioni 5; 9.20am-1.15pm & 5-9pm winter, to midnight summer) Organises hiking, cycling and 4WD tours in the Foresta Umbra; boat tours around the Gargano; and gastronomic tours and small group tours into Puglia. It also sells bus tickets and ferry tickets for the Isole Tremiti.

Leonarda Motobarche BOAT TOUR

( 0884 70 13 17; www.motobarcheleonarda.it; per person €13; Apr-Sep) Boat tours of marine caves.

Sleeping

B&B Rocca sul Mare B&B $

( 0884 70 27 19; www.roccasulmare.it; Via Mafrolla 32; per person €25-70; ) In a former convent in the old quarter, this popular and reasonably priced place has charm, with large, comfortable high-ceilinged rooms. There’s a vast rooftop terrace with panoramic views and a suite with a steam bath. Simple but tasty meals (€18 for four courses) and bike hire are available; staff also arrange fishing trips and will cook up your catch in the evening. You can arrange to be collected from Bari airport.

Campeggio Capo Vieste CAMPGROUND $

( 0884 70 63 26; www.capovieste.it; Km8; camping 2 people, car & tent €33, 1-bedroom bungalow €77-164; Mar-Oct; ) This tree-shaded camping ground is right by a sandy beach at La Salata, around 8km from Vieste and accessible by bus. Activities include tennis and a sailing school.

Hotel Seggio HOTEL $$

( 0884 70 81 23; www.hotelseggio.it; Via Veste 7; d €80-150; Apr-Oct; ) A butter-coloured palazzo in the town’s historic centre with steps that spiral down to a pool and sunbathing terrace with a backdrop of the sea. The rooms are modern and plain but it’s family run.

Eating

Osteria Al Duomo OSTERIA $

( 0884 70 82 43; www.osterialduomo.it; Via Alessandro III 23; meals €25; lunch & dinner Mar-Nov) Tucked away in a picturesque narrow alley in the heart of the old town, this welcoming osteria has a cosy cave interior and outdoor seating under a shady arbour. Homemade pastas with seafood sauces feature prominently.

Taverna Al
Cantinone TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$

( 0884 70 77 53; Via Mafrolla 26; meals €25-30; lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Run by a charming Italian–Spanish couple who have a passion for cooking; the food is exceptional and exquisitely presented. The menu changes with the seasons.

Enoteca Vesta TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$

( 0884 70 64 11; www.enotecavesta.it; Via Duomo 14; meals €30-35) You can savour a magnificent selection of Puglian wines to accompany innovative seafood dishes in this restaurant, which is housed in a cool vaulted cave.

Information

Post Office (Via Vittorio Veneto)

Tourist Office ( 0884 70 88 06; Piazza Kennedy; 8am-8pm Jun-Sep, 8am-1.30pm Mon-Fri & 4-7pm Tue-Thu Oct-May)

Getting There & Around

Boat

Vieste’s port is to the north of the town, about a five-minute walk from the tourist office. In summer several companies, including Navigazione Libera del Golfo ( 0884 70 74 89; www.navlib.it) , head to the Isole Tremiti. Tickets can be bought portside and there are several daily boats (€14.50 to €20, 1½ hours).

Several companies also offer tours of the caves that pock the Gargano coast – a three-hour tour costs around €13.

Bus

From Piazzale Manzoni, where intercity buses terminate, a 10-minute walk east along Viale XXIV Maggio, which becomes Corso Fazzini, brings you into the old town and the Marina Piccola’s attractive promenade. In summer buses terminate at Via Verdi.

SITA ( 0881 35 20 11; www.sitabus.it) buses run between Vieste and Foggia (€6.50, 2¾ hours, four daily) via Manfredonia. There are also services to Monte Sant’Angelo (€5) via Manfredonia but Ferrovie del Gargano ( 0881 58 72 11; www.ferroviedelgargano.com) buses have a direct daily service to Monte Sant’Angelo (€6, two hours) and frequent services to Peschici (€1.70, 35 minutes).

From May to September, Pugliairbus ( 080 580 03 58; pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it) runs a service to the Gargano, including Vieste, from Bari airport (€20, 3½ hours, four daily).

Monte Sant’Angelo

pop 13,300 / elev 796m

One of Europe’s most important pilgrimage sites, this isolated mountaintop has an extraordinary atmosphere. Pilgrims have been coming here for centuries – and so have the hustlers, pushing everything from religious kitsch to parking spaces.

The object of devotion is the Santuario di San Michele. Here, in AD 490, St Michael the Archangel is said to have appeared in a grotto to the bishop of Siponto. He left behind his scarlet cloak and instructions not to consecrate the site as he had already done so.

During the Middle Ages, the sanctuary marked the end of the Route of the Angel, which began in Mont St-Michel (in Normandy) and passed through Rome. In 999 the Holy Roman Emperor Otto III made a pilgrimage to the sanctuary to pray that prophecies about the end of the world in the year 1000 would not be fulfilled. His prayers were answered, the world staggered on and the sanctuary’s fame grew.

Sights

The town’s serpentine alleys and jumbled houses are perfect for a little aimless ambling. Look out for the different shaped cappelletti (chimney stacks) on top of the neat whitewashed houses.

Santuario di San Michele GROTTO

(Via Reale Basilica; 7.30am-7.30pm Jul-Sep, 7.30am-12.30pm & 2.30-7pm Apr-Jun & Oct, 7.30am-12:30pm & 2-5pm Nov-Mar) Look for the 17th-century pilgrims’ graffiti as you descend the steps. St Michael is said to have left a footprint in stone inside the grotto, so it became customary for pilgrims to carve outlines of their feet and hands. Etched Byzantine bronze and silver doors, cast in Constantinople in 1076, open into the grotto itself. Inside, a 16th-century statue of the archangel covers the site of St Michael’s footprint.

Tomba di Rotari HISTORIC SITE

(admission €1; 10am-1pm & 3-7pm Apr-Oct) A short flight of stairs opposite the Santuario di San Michele leads not to a tomb but to a 12th-century baptistry with a deep sunken basin for total immersion. You enter the baptistry through the facade of the Chiesa di San Pietro with its intricate rose window squirming with serpents – all that remains of the church, destroyed in a 19th-century earthquake. The Romanesque portal of the adjacent 11th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore has some fine bas-reliefs.

Castle HISTORIC SITE

(Largo Roberto Giuscardo 2; admission €2; 9.30am-1pm & 2.30-7pm) At the highest point is this rugged bijou, a Norman castle with Swabian and Aragonese additions as well as panoramic views.

Sleeping & Eating

Hotel Michael HOTEL $

( 0884 56 55 19; www.hotelmichael.com; Via Basilica 86; s €50-60, d €70-80; ) A small hotel with shuttered windows, located on the main street, across from the Santuario di San Michele, this traditional place has spacious rooms with extremely pink bedspreads. Ask for a room with a view.

Casa li Jalantuúmene TRATTORIA $$

( 0884 56 54 84; www.li-jalantuumene.it; Piazza de Galganis 5; meals €40; lunch Wed-Mon Feb-Dec; ) This renowned restaurant has an entertaining and eccentric chef, Gegè Mangano, and serves excellent fare. It’s intimate, there’s a select wine list and, in summer, tables spill into the piazza. It has four suites (€130), decorated in traditional Puglian style.

Getting There & Away

Ferrovie del Gargano has a direct service from Vieste (€5.90, two hours, five daily). Buy your tickets from Bar Esperia next to Santuario di San Michele.

SITA ( 0881 35 20 11; www.sitabus.it) buses run from Foggia (€4.60, 1¾ hours, four daily) and Vieste via Manfredonia.

Peschici

pop 4400

Perched above a turquoise sea and tempting beach, Peschici clings to the hilly, wooded coastline. It’s a pretty resort area with a tight-knit old walled town of Arabesque whitewashed houses. The small town gets crammed in summer, so book in advance. Boats zip across to the Isole Tremiti (Click here ) in high season.

Sleeping & Eating

Locanda al Castello B&B $

( 0884 96 40 38; www.peschicialcastello.it; Via Castello 29; s €35-70, d €70-120; ) Staying here is like entering a large, welcoming family home. It’s by the cliffs with fantastic views. Enjoy hearty home cooking in the restaurant (meals €18).

Baia San Nicola CAMPGROUND $

( 0884 96 42 31; www.baiasannicola.it; camping €22-37, 2-person bungalow per week €320-620; mid-May–mid-Oct) The best campground in the area, 2km south of Peschici towards Vieste, Baia San Nicola is on a pine-shaded beach, offering camping, bungalows, apartments and myriad amenities.

Il Trabucco da Mimi SEAFOOD $$

( 0884 96 25 56; Localita Punta San Nicola; meals €30-40; lunch & dinner Easter-Oct) For the ultimate in fresh fish you can’t beat eating in a trabucco (the traditional wooden fishing platforms lining the coast). Watch the process in operation – you can even help out – and dine on the catch. The decor is simple and rustic and you’ll pay for the experience – but it’s worth it.

Porto di Basso SEAFOOD $$

( 0884 91 53 64; www.portodibasso.it; Via Colombo 38; meals €30-40; Fri-Wed) Superb views of the ocean drop away from the floor-length windows beside the intimate alcove tables in this elegant clifftop restaurant. The menu of fresh local seafood changes daily. Close to the restaurant, two extremely stylish suites with fantastic sea views offer albergo diffuso –style accommodation (€110 to €120).

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Information

Tourist Office ( 0884 91 53 62; Via Magenta 3; 8am-2pm & 5-9pm Mon-Sat summer, 8am-2pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon & 4-7pm Sat in winter)

Getting There & Away

The bus terminal is beside the sportsground, uphill from the main street, Corso Garibaldi.

Ferrovie del Gargano (Click here ) buses run frequent daily services between Peschici and Vieste (€1.70, 35 minutes).

From April to September, ferry companies including MS&G Societá di Navigazione ( 0884 96 27 32; www.msgnavigazioni.it; Corso Umberto I 20) and Navigare SRL ( 0884 96 42 34; Corso Garibaldi 30) serve the Isole Tremiti (adult €25 to €30, child €16 to €21, one to 1½ hours).

Foresta Umbra

The ‘Forest of Shadows’ is the Gargano’s enchanted interior – thickets of tall, epic trees interspersed with picnic spots bathed in dappled light. It’s the last remnant of Puglia’s ancient forests: Aleppo pines, oaks, yews and beech trees shade the mountainous terrain. More than 65 different types of orchid have been discovered here; the wildlife includes roe deer, wild boar, foxes, badgers and the increasingly rare wild cat.

Sights & Activities

Walkers and mountain bikers will find plenty of well-marked trails within the forest’s 5790 sq km.

The small visitor centre in the middle of the forest houses a museum and nature centre (www.ecogargano.it; admission €1.20; 9am-7pm mid-Apr–mid-Oct) with fossils, photographs, and stuffed animals and birds. Half-day guided hikes (per person €10), bike hire (per hour/day €5/25), and walking maps (€2.50) are available.

Specialist tour operators organise hiking, biking and 4WD excursions in the park. These include Agenzia Sol (Click here ) and Explora Gargano ( 0884 70 22 37; www.exploragargano.it; Via Santa Maria di Merino 62; hiking & mountain biking half-day from €70, quad tours & jeep safari per day from €50) in Vieste and Soc Cooperative Ecogargano ( 0884 56 54 44; www.ecogargano.it) in Monte Sant’Angelo.

Sleeping

La Chiusa delle More B&B $$$

( 330 54 37 66; www.lachiusadellemore.it; B&B per person €200-240; May-Sep; ) La Chiusa delle More offers an escape from the cramped coast. An attractive stone-built agriturismo (farm stay), only 1.5km from Peschici, it’s set in a huge olive grove, and you can dine on home-grown produce, borrow mountain bikes and enjoy panoramic views from your poolside lounger. Note there is a three-night minimum stay.

Isole Tremiti

pop 500

This beautiful archipelago of three islands, 36km offshore, is a picturesque sight of raggedy cliffs, sandy coves and thick pine woods, surrounded by the glittering dark-blue sea.

Unfortunately the islands are no secret, and in July and August some 100,000 holidaymakers descend on the archipelago. At this time it’s noisy, loud and hot. If you want to savour the islands’ tranquillity, visit during the shoulder season. In the low season most tourist facilities close down and the few permanent residents resume their quiet and isolated lives.

The islands’ main facilities are on San Domino, the largest and lushest island, which was formerly used to grow crops. It’s ringed by alternating sandy beaches and limestone cliffs, while the inland is covered in thick maquis flecked with rosemary and foxglove. The centre harbours a nondescript small town with several hotels.

Easily defended, small San Nicola island is the traditional administrative centre – a castlelike cluster of medieval buildings rises up from the rocks. The third island, Capraia, is uninhabited.

Most boats arrive at San Domino. Small boats regularly make the brief crossing to San Nicola (€6 return) in high season – from October to March a single boat makes the trip after meeting the boat from the mainland.

Sights & Activities

San Domino ISLAND

Head to San Domino for walks, grottoes and coves. It has a pristine, marvellous coastline and the islands’ only sandy beach, Cala delle Arene. Alongside the beach is the small cove Grotta dell’Arene, with calm, clear waters for swimming.

You can also take a boat trip (€12 to €15 from the port) around the island to explore the grottoes: the largest, Grotta del Bue Marino , is 70m long. A tour around all three islands costs €15 to €17. Diving in the translucent sea is another option with Tremiti Diving Center ( 337 64 89 17; www.tremitidivingcenter.com; Via Federico 2) . There’s an undemanding, but enchanting, walking track around the island, starting at the far end of the village.

San Nicola ISLAND

Medieval buildings thrust out of San Nicola’s rocky shores, the same pale-sand colour as the barren cliffs. In 1010, Benedictine monks founded the Abbazia e Chiesa di Santa Maria here; for the next 700 years the islands were ruled by a series of abbots who accumulated great wealth.

Although the church retains a weather-worn Renaissance portal and a fine 11th-century floor mosaic, its other treasures have been stolen or destroyed throughout its troubled history. The only exceptions are a painted wooden Byzantine crucifix brought to the island in AD 747 and a black Madonna, probably transported here from Constantinople in the Middle Ages.

Capraia ISLAND

The third of the Isole Tremiti, Capraia, (named after the wild caper plant) is uninhabited. Birdlife is plentiful, with impressive flocks of seagulls. There’s no organised transport, but trips can be negotiated with local fishing folk.

Sleeping & Eating

In summer you’ll need to book well ahead and many hotels insist on full board. Camping is forbidden.

La Casa di Gino B&B $$

( 0882 46 34 10; www.hotel-gabbiano.com; Piazza Belvedere; r €180; ) A tranquil accommodation choice on San Nicola, away from the frenzy of San Domino, this B&B run by the Hotel Gabbiano has stylish white-on-white rooms.

Hotel Gabbiano HOTEL $$

( 0882 46 34 10; www.hotel-gabbiano.com; Piazza Belvedere; s incl breakfast €45-105, d incl breakfast €120-128; ) An established icon on the island and run for more than 30 years by a Neapolitan family, this smart hotel has pastel-coloured rooms with balconies overlooking San Nicola and the sea. It also has a seafood restaurant.

Architiello SEAFOOD $$

( 0882 46 30 54; meals €25; Apr-Oct) A class act with a seaview terrace, this specialises in – what else? – fresh fish.

Getting There & Away

Boats for the Isole Tremiti depart from several points on the Italian mainland: Manfredonia, Vieste and Peschici in summer, and Termoli in nearby Molise year-round.

Valle d’Itria

Between the Ionian and Adriatic coasts rises the great limestone plateau of the Murgia (473m). It has a strange karst geology: the landscape is riddled with holes and ravines through which small streams and rivers gurgle, creating what is, in effect, a giant sponge. At the heart of the Murgia lies the idyllic Valle d’Itria. Here you will begin to spot curious circular stone-built houses dotting the countryside, their roofs tapering up to a stubby and endearing point. These are trulli, Puglia’s unique rural architecture. It’s unclear why the architecture developed in this way; one popular story says that it was so the dry-stone constructions could be quickly dismantled, to avoid payment of building taxes.

The rolling green valley is criss-crossed by dry-stone walls, vineyards, almond and olive groves, and winding country lanes. This is the part of Puglia most visited by foreign tourists and is the best served for hotels and luxury masserias (working farms) or manor farms. Around here are also many of Puglia’s self-catering villas; to find them, try websites such as www.tuscanynow.com, www.ownersdirect.co.uk, www.holidayhomesinitaly.co.uk and www.trulliland.com.

Grotte di Castellana

Don’t miss these spectacular limestone caves ( 080 499 82 11/21; www.grottedicastellana.it; Piazzale Anelli; admission €15; 9am-6pm) , 40km southeast of Bari and Italy’s longest natural subterranean network. The interlinked galleries, first discovered in 1938, contain an incredible range of underground landscapes, with extraordinary stalactite and stalagmite formations – look out for the jellyfish, the bacon and the stocking. The highlight is the Grotta Bianca (White Grotto), an eerie white alabaster cavern hung with stiletto-thin stalactites.

There are two tours in English: a 1km, 50-minute tour that doesn’t include the Grotta Bianca (€10, on the half-hour) and a 3km, two-hour tour (€15, on the hour) that does include it. The temperature inside the cave averages 18°C so take a light jacket. Visit, too, the Museo Speleologico Franco Anelli ( 080 499 82 30; 9.30am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm mid-Mar–Oct, 10am-1pm Nov–mid-Mar) or the Osservatorio Astronomico Sirio ( 080 499 82 13; admission €4) , with its telescope and solar filters allowing for maximum solar-system visibility. Guided visits only with advance notification.

The grotto can be reached by rail from Bari on the FSE Bari–Taranto train line but not all trains stop at Grotte di Castellana. However, all services stop at Castellana Grotte (€2.90, 50 minutes, roughly hourly), 2km before the grotto, from where you can catch a local bus (€1.10) to the caves.

Alberobello

pop 11,000

Unesco World Heritage Site Alberobello resembles an urban sprawl – for gnomes. The Zona dei Trulli on the western hill of town is a dense mass of 1500 beehive-shaped houses, white-tipped as if dusted by snow. These dry-stone buildings are made from local limestone; none are older than the 14th century. Inhabitants do not wear pointy hats, but they do sell anything a visitor might want, from miniature trulli to woollen shawls.

The town is named after the primitive oak forest Arboris Belli (beautiful trees) that once covered this area. It’s an amazing area, but also something of a tourist trap – from May to October busloads of tourists pile int  trullo homes, drink in trullo bars and shop in trullo shops.

If you park in Lago Martellotta, follow the steps up to the Piazza del Popolo where Belvedere Trulli offers fabulous views over the whole higgledy-piggledy picture.

Sights

Rione Monti HISTORIC QUARTER

Within the old town quarter of Rione Monti more than 1000 trulli cascade down the hillside, most of which are now souvenir shops. The area is surprisingly quiet and atmospheric in the late evening, once the gaudy stalls have been stashed away.

Rione Aia Piccola HISTORIC QUARTER

To the east, on the other side of Via Indipendenza, is Rione Aia Piccola. This neighbourhood is much less commercialised, with 400 trulli, many still used as family dwellings. You can climb up for a rooftop view at many shops, although most do have a strategically located basket for a donation.

Trullo Sovrano HISTORIC QUARTER

( 080 432 60 30; Piazza Sacramento; admission €1.50; 10am-6pm) In the modern part of town, the 18th-century Trullo Sovrano is the only two-floor trullo, built by a wealthy priest’s family. It’s a small museum giving something of the atmosphere of trullo life, with sweet, rounded rooms that include a re-created bakery, bedroom and kitchen. The souvenir shop here has a wealth of literature on the town and surrounding area, plus Alberobello recipe books.

Sleeping

It’s a unique experience to stay in your own trullo, though some people might find Alberobello too touristy to use as a base.

Trullidea TRULLI $$

( 080 432 38 60; www.trullidea.it; Via Monte San Gabriele 1; 2-person trullo €99-150; ) A series of 15 renovated trulli in Alberobello’s Trulli Zone, these are quaint, cosy and atmospheric. They’re available on a self-catering, B&B, or half- or full-board basis.

Fascino Antico TRULLI $$

( 080 432 50 89; www.fascinoantico.eu; 1 bed €49-89, 2 bed €59-119, 3 bed €69-139, 4 bed €89-149; ) This lovely trulli complex sits just half a kilometre from Alberobello on the SS172 to Locorotondo. Set in a pretty landscaped garden, the rooms are light and comfortable with terracotta tiled floors and kitchenettes. A number of rooms also have bunks and cater for families.

Camping dei Trulli CAMPGROUND $

( 080 432 36 99; www.campingdeitrulli.com; Via Castellana Grotte; camping 2 people, car & tent €26.50, bungalows per person €25-40, trulli €30-60; ) This campsite is 1.5km out of town and has some nice tent sites. It has a restaurant, a market, two swimming pools, tennis courts and bicycle hire and you can also rent trulli off the grounds.

Eating

Trattoria Amatulli TRATTORIA $

( 080 432 29 79; Via Garibaldi 13; meals €16; Tue-Sun) Excellent trattoria with a cheerily cluttered interior papered with photos of smiley diners, plus superb down-to-earth dishes like orecchiette scure con cacioricotta pomodoro e rucola (‘little ears’ pasta with cheese, tomato and rucola). Wash it down with the surprisingly drinkable house wine, costing the lordly sum of €4 a litre.

La Cantina TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $

( 080 432 34 73; www.ilristorantelacantina.it; cnr Corso Vittorio Emanuele & Vico Lippolis; meals €25; Wed-Mon) Although tourists have discovered this place, located to the side of a little Doric temple, it has maintained the high standards established back in 1958. There are just seven tables (book ahead), and it serves delicious meals made with fresh seasonal produce.

Il Poeta Contadino TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$$

( 080 432 19 17; www.ilpoetacontadino.it; Via Indipendenza 21; meals €65; Tue-Sun Feb-Dec) Located just outside the main throng, the dining room here has a medieval banqueting feel with its sumptuous decor and chandeliers. Dine on a poetic menu that includes the signature dish, fava bean purée with cavatelli (rod-shaped pasta) and seafood.

Information

Tourist Office ( 080 432 51 71; Via Garibaldi; 8am-1pm Mon, Wed & Fri, plus 3-6pm Tue & Thu) Just off the main square. In the Zona dei Trulli there is another tourist information office ( 080 432 28 22; www.prolocoalberobello.it; Monte Nero 1; 9am-7.30pm) .

Getting There & Away

Alberobello is easily accessible from Bari (€4.50, 1½ hours, hourly) on the FSE Bari–Taranto train line. From the station, walk straight ahead along Via Mazzini, which becomes Via Garibaldi, to reach Piazza del Popolo.

Locorotondo

pop 14,200

Locorotondo has an extraordinarily beautiful and whisper-quiet pedestrianised centro storico, where everything is shimmering white aside from the blood-red geraniums that tumble from the window boxes. Situated on a hilltop on the Murge Plateau, it’s a borghi più belli d’Italia (www.borghitalia.it) – that is, it’s rated as one of the most beautiful towns in Italy. The streets are paved with smooth ivory-coloured stones, with the church of Santa Maria della Graecia as their sunbaked centrepiece.

From Villa Comunale , a public garden, you can enjoy panoramic views of the surrounding valley. You enter the historic quarter directly across from here.

Not only is this deepest trulli country, but it’s also the liquid heart of the Puglian wine region. Sample some of the local spumante at Cantina del Locorotondo ( 080 431 16 44; www.locorotondodoc.com; Via Madonna della Catena 99; 9am-1pm & 3-7pm) .

Sleeping

Truddhi TRULLI $

( 080 443 13 26; www.trulliresidence.it; Contrada da Trito 292; d €65-80, apt €100-150, per week from €450-741; ) This charming cluster of 10 self-catering trulli in the hamlet of Trito near Locorotondo is surrounded by olive groves and vineyards. It’s a tranquil place and you can take cooking courses (per day €80) with Mino, a lecturer in gastronomy.

Sotto le Cummerse APARTMENT $$

( 080 431 32 98; www.sottolecummerse.it; Via Vittorio Veneto 138; apt incl breakfast €82-298; ) As this is an albergo diffuso (difused hotel), you can stay in tastefully furnished apartments scattered throughout the centro storico . The apartments are traditional buildings that have been beautifully restored and furnished. Excellent value and a great base for exploring the region.

Eating

Quanto Basta PIZZERIA $

( 080 431 28 55; Via Morelli 12; pizzas €6-7; dinner Tue-Sun) With its wooden tables, soft lighting and stone floors this old-town pizzeria is cosy and welcoming. The pizzas are delicious and the beer list extensive.

La Taverna del Duca TRATTORIA $$

( 080 431 30 07; Via Papadotero 3; meals €35; lunch & dinner, closed Sun night winter) In a narrow side street off Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, this well-regarded trattoria serves local classics such as orecchiette with various vegetable sidekicks.

Information

Tourist Office ( 080 431 30 99; www.prolocolocorotondo.it; Piazza Vittorio Emanuele 27; 10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) Offers free internet access.

Getting There & Away

Locorotondo is easily accessible via frequent trains from Bari (€5.20, 1½ to two hours) on the FSE Bari–Taranto train line.

Cisternino

pop 12,000

An appealing, whitewashed hilltop town, slow-paced Cisternino has a charming centro storico beyond its bland modern outskirts; with its kasbahlike knot of streets, it has been designated as one of the country’s borghi più belli (most beautiful towns). Beside its 13th-century Chiesa Matrice and Torre Civica there’s a pretty communal garden with rural views. If you take Via Basilioni next to the tower you can amble along an elegant route right to the central piazza, Vittorio Emanuele.

Just outside the historic centre, the tourist office ( 080 444 66 61; www.prolococisternino.it; Via San Quirico 18; 10.15am-12.15pm & 4.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat) is not always open but can advise on B&Bs in the historic centre.

Cisternino has a grand tradition of fornello pronto (ready-to-go roast or grilled meat) and in numerous butchers’ shops and trattorias you can select a cut of meat, which is then promptly cooked on the spot. Try it under the whitewashed arches at no-frills but hugely popular Rosticceria L’Antico Borgo ( 080 444 64 00; www.rosticceria-lanticoborgo.it; Via Tarantini 9; roast meat €18-28) .

Cisternino is accessible by regular trains from Bari (€6, 45 minutes).

Martina Franca

pop 49,800

The old quarter of this town is a picturesque scene of winding alleys, blinding white houses and blood-red geraniums. There are graceful baroque and rococo buildings here too, plus airy piazzas and curlicue ironwork balconies that almost touch above the narrow streets. This town is the highest in the Murgia, and was founded in the 10th century by refugees fleeing the Arab invasion of Taranto. It only started to flourish in the 14th century when Philip of Anjou granted tax exemptions ( franchigie, hence Franca); the town became so wealthy that a castle and defensive walls complete with 24 solid bastions were built.

Sights & Activities

The beauty of Martina Franca encourages wandering around the centro storico’ s narrow lanes and alleyways.

Passing under the baroque Arco di Sant’Antonio at the western end of pedestrianised Piazza XX Settembre, you emerge into Piazza Roma, dominated by the imposing, austere 17th-century Palazzo Ducale , built over an ancient castle and now used as municipal offices.

From Piazza Roma, follow the fine Corso Vittorio Emanuele, with baroque town houses, to reach Piazza Plebiscito, the centre’s baroque heart. The piazza is overlooked by the 18th-century Basilica di San Martino , its centrepiece city patron, St Martin, swinging a sword and sharing his cloak with a beggar.

Walkers can ask for the Carta dei Sentieri del Bosco delle Pianelle (free) from the tourist office, which maps out 10 walks in the nearby Bosco delle Pianelle (around 10km west of town). This lush woodland is part of the larger 12-sq-km Riserva Naturale Regionale Orientata – populated with lofty trees, wild orchids, and a rich and varied bird life with kestrels, owls, buzzards, hoopoe and sparrow hawks.

Festivals & Events

Festival della Valle d’Itria MUSIC

Festival della Valle d’Itria is an annual music festival (late July to early August) featuring international performances of opera, classical and jazz. For information, contact the Centro Artistico Musicale Paolo Grassi ( 080 480 51 00; www.festivaldellavalleditria.it; 10am-1pm Mon-Fri) in the Palazzo Ducale.

Sleeping

B&B San Martino B&B $

( 080 48 56 01; http://xoomer.virgilio.it/bed-and-breakfast-sanmartino; Via Abate Fighera 32; d €40-120; ) A stylish B&B in a historic palace with rooms overlooking gracious Piazza XX Settembre. The apartments have exposed stone walls, shiny parquet floors, wrought-iron beds and small kitchenettes.

Villaggio In APARTMENT $$

( 080 480 59 11; www.villaggioincasesparse.it; Via Arco Grassi 8; apt per night €75-170, apt per week €335-1030; ) These charming arched apartments are located in original centro storico homes. The rooms are large, painted in pastel colours and decorated with antiques and country frills. A variety of apartments are on offer, sleeping from two to six people.

Eating

Il Ritrovo degli Amici TRADITIONAL ITALIAN $$

( 080 483 92 49; www.ilritrovodegliamici.it; Corso Messapia 8; meals €35; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, lunch Sun Mar-Jan) This excellent restaurant with stone walls and vaulting, in a street off Corso Italia, has a convivial atmosphere oiled by the region’s spumante. Dishes are traditional, with salamis and sausages as the specialities.

Ciacco PUGLIAN $$

( 080 480 04 72; Via Conte Ugolino; meals €30; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Dive into the historic centre to find Ciacco, a traditional restaurant with white-clad tables and a cosy fireplace, serving up Puglian cuisine in a modern key. It’s tucked down a narrow pedestrian lane a couple of streets in from the Chiesa del Carmine.

La Piazzetta Garibaldi OSTERIA $$

( 080 430 49 00; Piazza Garibaldi; meals €20-30; lunch & dinner Thu-Tue) A highly recommended green-shuttered osteria in the centro storico . Delicious aromas entice you into the cavelike interior and the cucina tipica menu doesn’t disappoint. Worthy of a long lunch.

Information

Tourist Office ( 080 480 57 02; Piazza Roma 37; 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, 4.30-7pm Tue & Thu, 9am-12.30pm Sat) The tourist office is within Palazzo Ducale (part of the Bibliotece Comunal).

Getting There & Around

The FSE train station is downhill from the historic centre. Go right along Viale della Stazione, continuing along Via Alessandro Fighera to Corso Italia; continue to the left along Corso Italia to Piazza XX Settembre. FSE ( 080 546 21 11) trains run to/from the following destinations:

Bari (€5.20, two hours, hourly)

Lecce (€7.10, two hours, five daily)

Taranto (€2.30, 40 minutes, frequent)

FSE buses run to Alberobello (€1.50, 30 minutes, five per day, Monday to Saturday).

Ostuni

pop 32,500

Ostuni shines like a pearly white tiara, extending across three hills with the magnificent gem of a cathedral as its sparkling centrepiece. It’s the end of the trulli region and the beginning of the hot, dry Salento. Chic, with some excellent restaurants, stylish bars and swish yet intimate places to stay, it’s packed in summer.

Sights

Ostuni is surrounded by olive groves, so this is the place to buy some of the region’s DOC ‘Collina di Brindisi’ olive oil – either delicate, medium or strong – direct from producers.

Cathedral CATHEDRAL

(Via Cattedrale; admission €1; 9am-1pm & 3-7pm) Ostuni’s dramatic 15th-century cathedral has an unusual Gothic-Romanesque facade with a frilly rose window and an inverted gable.

Museo di Cività
Preclassiche della Murgia MUSEUM

( 0831 33 63 83; Via Cattedrale 15; 10am-1pm Tue-Fri, 10am-1pm & 4-7pm Sat & Sun) Located in the Convento delle Monacelle, the museum’s most famous exhibit is the 25,000-year-old star of the show: Delia. She was pregnant at the time of her death and her well-preserved skeleton was found in a local cave. Many of the finds here come from the Palaeolithic burial ground, now the Parco Archeologico e Naturale di Arignano ( 0831 30 39 73) , which can be visited by appointment.

Activities

The surrounding countryside is perfect for cycling.

Ciclovagando CYCLING

( 330 985255; www.ciclovagando.com; half/full day €30/40 ) Organises guided tours. Each tour covers approximately 20km and departs daily from various towns in the district, including Ostuni and Brindisi. For an extra €15 you can sample typical Apulian foods on the tour.

Festivals & Events

La Cavalcata RELIGIOUS

Ostuni’s annual feast day is held on 26 August, when processions of horsemen dressed in glittering red-and-white uniforms (resembling Indian grooms on their way to be wed) follow the statue of Sant’Oronzo around town.

Sleeping

Le Sole Blu B&B $

( 0831 30 38 56; www.webalice.it/solebluostuni; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 16; s €30-40, d €60-80) Located in the 18th-century (rather than medieval) part of town, Le Sole Blu only has one room available: it’s large and has a separate entrance, but the bathroom is tiny. However, the two self-catering apartments nearby are excellent value.

La Terra HOTEL $$

( 0831 33 66 51; www.laterrahotel.it; Via Petrarolo; d €130-170; ) This former 13th-century palace offers atmospheric and stylish accommodation with original niches, dark-wood beams and furniture, and contrasting light stonework and whitewash. The result is a cool contemporary look. The bar is as cavernous as they come – it’s tunnelled out of a cave.

Eating

Osteria Piazzetta Cattedrale OSTERIA $$

( 0831 33 50 26; www.piazzettacattedrale.it; Via Arcidiacono Trinchera 7; meals €25-30; Wed-Mon; ) Just beyond the arch opposite Ostuni’s cathedral is this tiny little hostelry serving up magical food in an atmospheric setting. The menu includes plenty of vegetarian options.

Osteria del Tempo Perso OSTERIA $$

( 0831 30 33 20; www.osteriadeltempoperso.com; Gaetano Tanzarella Vitale 47; meals €30; Tue-Sun) A sophisticated rustic restaurant in a cavelike former bakery, this laid-back place serves great Puglian food, specialising in roasted meats. To get here, face the cathedral’s south wall and turn right through the archway into Largo Giuseppe Spennati, then follow the signs to the restaurant.

Porta Nova MODERN ITALIAN $$

( 0831 33 89 83; www.ristoranteportanova.com; Via G Petrarolo 38; meals €45) This restaurant has a wonderful location on the old city wall. Revel in the rolling views from the terrace or relax in the elegant interior while you feast on top-notch local cuisine, with fish and seafood the speciality.

Information

Tourist Office ( 0831 30 12 68; Corso Mazzini 8; 9am-1pm & 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-8.30pm Sat & Sun) Located off Piazza della Libertà; can organise guided visits of the town in summer and bike rental.

Getting There & Around

STP buses run to Brindisi (€2.30, 50 minutes, six daily) and to Martina Franca (€2.30, 45 minutes, three daily), leaving from Piazza Italia in the newer part of Ostuni.

Trains run frequently to Brindisi (€4, 25 minutes) and Bari (€9, 50 minutes). A half-hourly local bus covers the 2.5km between the station and town.

Lecce

pop 95,000

Historic Lecce is a beautiful baroque town; it’s a glorious architectural confection of palaces and churches intricately sculpted from the soft local sandstone. It is a city full of surprises: one minute you are perusing sleek designer fashions from Milan, the next you are faced with a church – dizzyingly decorated with asparagus column tops, decorative dodos and cavorting gremlins. Swooning 18th-century traveller Thomas Ashe thought it ‘the most beautiful city in Italy’, but the less-impressed Marchese Grimaldi said the facade of Santa Croce made him think a lunatic was having a nightmare.

Either way, it’s a lively, graceful but relaxed university town packed with upmarket boutiques, antique shops, restaurants and bars. Both the Adriatic and Ionian Seas are within easy access and it’s a great base from which to explore the Salento.

Sights

Lecce has more than 40 churches and at least as many palazzi, all built or renovated between the 17th and 18th centuries, giving the city an extraordinary cohesion. Two of the main proponents of barocco leccese (Lecce baroque – the craziest, most lavish decoration imaginable) were brothers Antonio and Giuseppe Zimbalo, who both had a hand in the fantastical Basilica di Santa Croce.

Basilica di Santa Croce CHURCH

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( 0832 24 19 57; www.basilicasantacroce.eu; Via Umberto I; 9am-noon & 5-8pm) It seems that hallucinating stonemasons have been at work on the basilica. Sheep, dodos, cherubs and beasties writhe across the facade, a swirling magnificent allegorical feast. Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, a team of artists under Giuseppe Zimbalo laboured to work the building up to this pitch. Look for Zimbalo’s profile on the facade.

The interior is more conventionally Renaissance and deserves a look, once you’ve finished gazing outside. Zimbalo also left his mark in the former Convento dei Celestini, just north of the basilica, which is now the Palazzo del Governo OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP , the local government headquarters.

Piazza del Duomo PIAZZA

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A baroque feast, Piazza del Duomo is the city’s focal point and a sudden open space amid the surrounding enclosed lanes. During times of invasion the inhabitants of Lecce would barricade themselves in the square, which has conveniently narrow entrances. The 12th-century cathedral OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 8.30am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm) is one of Giuseppe Zimbalo’s finest works – he was also responsible for the 68m-high bell tower. The cathedral is unusual in that it has two facades, one on the western end and the other, more ornate, facing the piazza. It’s framed by the 15th-century Palazzo Vescovile OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (Episcopal Palace; Piazza del Duomo) and the 18th-century Seminario OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (Piazza del Duomo; exhibitions only) , designed by Giuseppe Cino.

Museo Faggiano MUSEUM

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( 360 72 24 48; www.museofaggiano.it; Via Grandi 56/58; admission €3; 9.30am-1pm & 4-8pm) Breaking the floor to replace sewer pipes led the owner of this private home to the chance discovery of an archaeological treasure trove. Layers of history are revealed beneath the floors and in the walls. Look out for what appears to be the Knights Templar symbol in the rooftop tower.

Museo Provinciale MUSEUM

( 0832 68 35 03; Via Gallipoli 28; 8.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) The museum stylishly covers 10,000 years of history, from Palaeolithic and Neolithic bits and bobs to a handsome display of Greek and Roman jewels, weaponry and ornaments. The stars of the show are the Messapians, whose jaunty Mycenaean-inspired jugs and bowls date back 2500 years.

Roman Amphitheatre HISTORIC SITE

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(Piazza Sant’Oronzo; adult/reduced €2/1; 10am-noon & 5-7pm May-Sep) Below the ground level of the piazza is this restored 2nd-century-AD amphitheatre, discovered in 1901 by construction workers. It was excavated in the 1930s to reveal a perfect horseshoe with seating for 15,000.

MUST ART GALLERY

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(www.mustlecce.it; Via degli Ammirati 11; admission €3; 10am-1.30pm & 2.30-7.30pm) This beautiful conversion of the Monastery of Santa Chiara houses the work of local artists and has a great view of a Roman amphitheatre from the back window. There are plans to expand the remit to cover local history; at present the contemporary art is spread a bit thin.

Colonna di Sant’Oronzo MONUMENT

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(Piazza Sant’Oronzo) A statue of Lecce’s patron saint perches precariously on a column in the piazza. The column, originally from Brindisi, marked the end of the Via Appia – the Roman road that stretched from Rome to Brindisi.

Museo Teatro Romano HISTORIC SITE

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( 0832 27 91 96; Via degli Ammirati; adult/reduced €3/2; 9.30am-1.30pm & 5-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-1.30pm Sat ) Uncovered in the 1930s, this small Roman theatre has well-preserved russet-coloured Roman mosaics and frescoes.

Castello di Carlo V CASTLE

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( 0832 24 65 17; 9am-1pm & 5-9pm) This 16th-century castle was built around a 12th-century Norman tower to the orders of Charles V and consists of two concentric trapezoidal structures. It’s been used as a prison, a court and military headquarters; now you can wander around the baronial spaces and visit the occasional art exhibition.

Courses

Awaiting Table COOKING

(www.awaitingtable.com; day/week €195/1995) Silvestro Silvestori’s splendid culinary and wine school provides day or weeklong courses with market shopping, tours, tastings, noteworthy lecturers – and lots of hands-on cooking. Book well in advance as courses fill up rapidly.

Sleeping

Palazzo Belli B&B B&B $

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( 380 7758456; www.palazzobelli.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 33; s €50-60, d €70-80; ) A wonderfully central, elegant and well priced option, located in a fine mansion building near the cathedral. Rooms have marbled floors and wrought-iron beds. Breakfast is served in the nearby All’Ombra del Barocco bar.

Palazzo Rollo APARTMENT $

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( 0832 30 71 52; www.palazzorollo.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 14; s €50-60, d €70-90, ste €100-120, apt €70-90; ) Stay in a 17th-century palace – the Rollo family seat for more than 200 years. The three grand B&B suites (with kitchenettes) have high curved ceilings and chandeliers. Downstairs, contemporary-chic studios open onto an ivy-hung courtyard. The rooftop garden has wonderful views.

Azzurretta B&B GUESTHOUSE $

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( 0832 24 22 11; www.hostelecce.com; Via Vignes 2; s €30-38, d €55-70; ) The friendly brother of the owner of Centro Storico B&B runs this artier version located within the same building; ask for the large double with a balcony, wooden floors and a vaulted ceiling. Massage is available in your room or on the roof terrace. You get a cafe voucher for breakfast. The brothers have a tiny studio flat, which is a little dark but a good option if you’re self-catering on a budget.

Suite 68 BOUTIQUE HOTEL $

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( 0832 30 35 06; www.kalekora.it; Via Prato 7-9; s €70-80, d €80-120; ) Strong colours, abstract canvases and vividly patterned rugs in the large, bright rooms give this place a contemporary feel. It’s simple and stylish. Bikes available.

Centro Storico B&B B&B $

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( 338 5881265; www.bedandbreakfast.lecce.it; Via Vignes 2b; s €35-40, d €70-100; ) This friendly and efficient B&B located in a historic palace features big rooms, double-glazed windows and pleasantly old-fashioned decor. The huge rooftop terrace has sun loungers and views; you get a cafe voucher for breakfast, and it also has coffee-and-tea-making facilities.

B&B Prestige B&B $

( 349 7751290; www.bbprestige-lecce.it; Giuseppe Libertini 7; s €60-70, d €70-90, tr €100-110; ) On the corner of Via Santa Maria del Paradiso in the historic centre, the rooms in this lovely B&B are light, airy and beautifully finished. The communal sun-trap terrace has views over San Giovanni Battista church.

Risorgimento Resort HOTEL $$

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( 0832 24 63 11; www.risorgimentoresort.it; Via Imperatore Augusto 19; d €145-165, ste €190-290; ) A warm welcome awaits at this stylish five-star hotel in the centre of Lecce. The rooms are spacious and refined with high ceilings, modern furniture and contemporary details reflecting the colours of the Salento, and the bathrooms are enormous. There’s a restaurant, wine bar and rooftop garden.

Patria Palace Hotel HOTEL $$

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( 0832 24 51 11; www.patriapalacelecce.com; Piazzetta Riccardi 13; s €106-210, d €165-350; ) This sumptuous hotel is traditionally Italian with large mirrors, dark-wood furniture and wistful murals. The location is wonderful, the bar gloriously art deco with a magnificent carved ceiling, and the shady roof terrace has views over the Basilica di Santa Croce.

Eating

Gelateria Natale GELATO $

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(Via Trinchese 7a) Lecce’s best ice-cream parlour also has an array of fabulous confectionery.

Mamma Lupa OSTERIA $

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( 340 7832765; Via Acaja 12; meals €20-25; lunch Sun-Fri, dinner daily) Looking suitably rustic, this osteria serves proper peasant food – such as roast tomatoes, potatoes and artichokes, or horse meatballs – in snug surroundings with just a few tables and a stone-vaulted ceiling.

Trattoria di Nonna Tetti TRATTORIA $

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( 0832 24 60 36; Piazzetta Regina Maria 28; mains €8-12; lunch & dinner) A warmly inviting restaurant, popular with all ages and budgets, this trattoria serves a wide choice of traditional dishes. Try the most emblematic Puglian dish here – braised wild chicory with a purée of boiled dried fava beans, along with contorni (side dishes) like patate casarecce (homemade thinly sliced fries).

Cucina Casareccia TRATTORIA $$

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( 0832 24 51 78; Viale Costadura 19; mains €12; lunch Tue-Sun, dinner Tue-Sat) Ring the bell to gain entry into a place that feels like a private home, with its patterned cement floor tiles, desk piled high with papers, and charming owner Carmela Perrone. In fact, it’s known locally as le Zie (the aunts). Here you’ll taste the true cucina povera , including horse meat done in a salsa piccante (spicy sauce). Booking is a must.

Alle due Corti PUGLIAN $$

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( 0832 24 22 23; www.alleduecorti.com; Via Prato 42; mains €12; lunch & dinner daily, closed winter) For a taste of sunny Salento, check out this no-frills, fiercely traditional restaurant. The seasonal menu is classic Puglian, written in a dialect that even some Italians struggle with. Go for the real deal with a dish of ciceri e tria (crisply fried pasta with chickpeas).

Drinking

Via Imperatore Augusto is full of bars, and on a summer’s night it feels like one long party. Wander along to find somewhere to settle.

All’Ombra del Barocco WINE BAR

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(www.allombradelbarocco.it; Corte dei Cicala 9; 8am-1am) This cool restaurant/cafe/wine bar next door to the Liberrima bookshop has a range of teas, cocktails and aperitivi. It’s open for breakfast and also hosts musical events; the modern cooking is well worth a try. Tables fill the little square outside, an ideal place from which to watch the passeggiata (evening stroll).

Caffè Alvino CAFE

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(Piazza Sant’Oronzo; Wed-Mon) Treat yourself to great coffee and pasticciotto (custard-filled pastry) at this iconic chandeliered cafe in Lecce’s main square: it has a sumptuous display of cakes.

Shui 13 Wine Bar WINE BAR

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(Via Umberto I 21; 10am-late summer, 10am-3pm & 6pm-midnight winter) A hip and atmospheric wine bar with candlelit outside tables and a range of Puglian wines.

Information

The centre’s twin main squares are Piazza Sant’Oronzo and Piazza del Duomo, linked by pedestrianised Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.

CTS ( 0832 30 18 62; Via Palmieri 89; 9am-1pm daily & 4-7.30pm Sun & Mon) Good for student travel.

Hospital ( 0832 66 11 11; Via San Cesario) About 2km south of the centre on the Gallipoli road.

InfoLecce ( 0832 52 18 77; www.infolecce.it; Piazza del Duomo 2; 9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun) Independent and helpful tourist information office. Has guided tours and bike rental (per hour/day €3/15).

Police Station ( 0832 69 11 11; Viale Otranto 1)

Post Office (Piazza Libertini)

Puglia Blog (www.thepuglia.com) Voted in Italy as the most popular blog on Puglia, this informative site run by Fabio Ingrosso has articles on culture, history, food, wine, accommodation and travel in Puglia.

Salento Showroom ( 0832 179 03 57; www.salentotime.it; Via Revina Isabella 22; 9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-7.30pm Mon-Sat, from 10am Sun) Independent tourist office that can provide help with accommodation and car hire. Has internet access (per hour €3).

Tourist Office ( 0832 24 80 92; www.viaggiareinpuglia.it; Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 24; 9am-1pm & 4-7pm Mon-Thu, 9am-1pm Fri & Sat)

Getting There & Away

Bus

The city bus terminal is located to the north of Porta Napoli.

STP ( 0832 35 91 42; www.stplecce.it) Runs buses to Brindisi (€6.30, 35 minutes, nine daily) and throughout Puglia from the STP bus station ( 800 43 03 46; Viale Porta D’Europa) .

FSE ( 0832 66 81 11; www.fseonline.it) Runs buses to Gallipoli (€2.60, one hour, four daily) and Otranto (€2.60, 1½ hours, two daily), leaving from Largo Vittime del Terrorismo.

Pugliairbus (http://pugliairbus.aeroportidipuglia.it) Runs to Brindisi airport (€7, 40 minutes, nine daily). SITA also has buses to Brindisi airport (€6, 45 minutes, nine daily), leaving from Viale Porte d’Europa.

Train

The train station is 1km southwest of Lecce’s historic centre. It runs frequent services to the following destinations:

Bari (from €9, 1½ to two hours)

Bologna (from €82.50, 7½ to 9½ hours)

Brindisi (from €9, 30 minutes)

Naples (from €41, 5½ hours with transfer in Caserta)

Rome (from €66, 5½ to nine hours)

FSE trains head to Otranto, Gallipoli and Martina Franca; the ticket office is located on platform 1.

Brindisi

pop 89,800

Like all ports, Brindisi has its seamy side, but it’s also surprisingly slow paced and balmy, particularly the palm-lined Corso Garibaldi linking the port to the train station and the promenade stretching along the interesting seafront.

The town was the end of the ancient Roman road Via Appia, down whose weary length trudged legionnaires and pilgrims, crusaders and traders, all heading to Greece and the Near East. These days little has changed except that Brindisi’s pilgrims are sun-seekers rather than soul-seekers.