Drinking Like a Local

The magic words for wine drinkers are ein Achterl (an eighth of a litre), which is the most common serving in Vienna. The wine is always delivered with a glass of tap water (Leitungswasser), but on finer occasions mineral water is usually the thing to order. Beer drinkers can choose ein kleines (0.2L to 0.3L), ein grosses (0.5L), ein helles (clear, light flavoured), ein dunkeles (dark) and much more. Coffee is rocket science in Vienna, with a profusion of varieties. Just because a place serves food doesn’t mean you cannot drop in just for a drink there. After 10pm many morph into bars or even small ‘clubs’ with a resident DJ.

Vienna in Winter

Despite cold weather and often grey skies, Vienna is a remarkably active city in winter. Obviously, local pursuits are of the indoor variety, but this is also the main arts and performance season. The Viennese settle into the enjoyable warmth of classical venues such as the Staatsoper, or make the most of the bars, clubs and live music venues. The idea is not to seek the outdoors or expect much outdoor activity but to adapt to this winter lifestyle. One of the few exceptions when the Viennese linger outdoors in winter is the lead-up to Christmas, when Christkindlmärkte (Christmas markets) spring up all over Vienna. A large one is held on Maria-Theresien-Platz; quaint but lively ones are in Spittelberg and in the courtyard of Heiligenkreuzerhof.

The Summer Scene

The summer months, especially July and August, are when the Viennese emerge from the indoor venues and flock onto the streets. Restaurant tables sprout up and spread across the squares and footpaths, filled with voluble Viennese soaking up warmth and sunshine. The main courtyard of the MuseumsQuartier is often packed with warm-weather worshippers lounging about on brightly painted concrete forms that double as seating (they are repainted every year in a different colour). The Altes AKH university campus is another popular outdoor area in summer, and Yppenplatz has a good constellation of bars and cafes with outdoor seating. Each summer the large Summer Stage emerges alongside the Danube Canal. Nearby Flex (Click here), Motto am Fluss (Click here) and the world-class beach bar Strandbar Herrmann (Click here) bring the canal to life. Across the canal, the Prater and the Danube Island (on the Danube River) are green havens popular for picnics and activities such as inline skating.

Eating Like a Local

The most local of local experiences is to eat in a Beisl (something like a bistro pub serving wine, beer and hearty food) or in one of the coffee houses that serve traditional food, such as Café Sperl (Click here). Don’t miss out on either of these experiences, but also make sure you plunge into the more formal Viennese restaurant scene too. A pre-dinner drink, a good meal, followed by a bar and club can make a great night out in Vienna. Visit the markets, try a horse-meat sausage at Karmelitermarkt (Click here) or some of the delicacies of Naschmarkt (Click here) or Brunnenmarkt (Click here). The restaurants around these markets also have a nice local feel. Don’t forget to pre-book for the evening in the more formal or popular places, especially on Friday and Saturday nights. For more, Click here.

Getting Around Town

In summer, cycling is a great way to move through the city. Bikes can be hired from stands around the city, or by the day or longer from various operators. The network of marked bike paths is excellent, with over 1200km threading through the 21 districts. Make the most of the U-Bahn, which runs all night on Friday and Saturday, complemented by night buses. Trams don’t run as late as the U-Bahn but they are a great way to move around and see the city.

Dress up or Dress Down?

The Viennese like to dress up and dress down. Regardless of the direction, however, they think about how they dress and most make a fashionable or styled impression. Clean or well-polished shoes are important in this part of Europe. All-purpose wear, like joggers and street-wear trousers, are worn by young Viennese but are less common as you move up the age scale. You can get by with this – less so in shorts – in a Beisl at lunchtime, but you’ll want to wear a nice pair of pants to avoid feeling out of place in the evening.

Staying in Touch

Coffee houses usually have a good selection of press. Among the local Austrian papers, sensationalist Kronen Zeitung and free Heute have the largest circulation. Serious papers include the leftish Der Standard and right-wing Die Presse . Augustin is a street newspaper partially produced and sold by the homeless. The weekly Falter is the indispensable German-language entertainment magazine, with listings from Friday to the following Thursday, articles and reviews.