Shopping
Eclipsed by the trendsetting likes of Paris and London for many years, Vienna has spread its creative wings in the fashion and design world over the past decade. Whether you’re browsing for hand-painted porcelain in the Innere Stadt, new-wave street-wear in Neubau or home-spun clothing in the Freihausviertel, you’ll find inspiration, a passion for quality and an attentive eye for detail around almost every corner.
Vienna’s Fashion & Design Scene
As one clued-up local pointed out, the Viennese have a love of life’s fine details that extends to the way they shop, prizing quality of craftsmanship, eye-catching details and an individual sense of style over identikit high streets and throw-away products. The city is full of ateliers and independent boutiques where regulars are greeted by name and designers can often be seen at work, whether adding the finishing touches to a shift dress, knitting chunky beanies from silky merino wool or custom-making jewellery.
One of Europe’s most dynamic, Vienna’s contemporary fashion and design scene is fed by an influx of young up-and-coming creatives. This scene took root in the 7th district a few years back, and has spread fresh new shoots everywhere from Praterstrasse in the 2nd to Yppenplatz in the 16th today. Social consciousness is key, with many shops placing the accent on fair-trade materials and locally recycled or upcycled products – one man’s junk becoming another man’s treasure is big.
Also bang on trend are crossover enterprises. So you might, for instance, shop for vinyl before grabbing a wholesome lunch at Tongues (Click here), flick through Babettes’ (Click here) globetrotting cookbooks before sampling a curry made with own-brand spices, or have your hair trimmed before spicing up your wardrobe with urban styles at Be a good girl (Click here).
Market Mornings
One of the true joys of shopping in Vienna is milling around its markets first thing in the morning and having the chance to chat to the producers. With globalisation storming the world, it’s refreshing to know that in Vienna the traditional market is still alive and kicking.
Almost every district has at least one market selling fresh produce from Monday to Saturday, many reflecting the ethnic diversity of their neighbourhood. Some host Bauernmärkte (farmers markets) on Saturday mornings, where growers from the surrounding countryside travel to the big city to sell their wares: fresh vegetables, tree-ripened fruit, cured hams, free-range eggs, homemade schnapps and cut flowers. Do as the laid-back Viennese do and linger for banter and brunch at a market-side cafe or deli.
Christmas Markets
From around mid-November to Christmas Eve, Christkindlmärkte (advent markets) breathe festive cheer into the city’s squares, courtyards and cobbled lanes. Each has its own flair but all have Glühwein (mulled wine), Maroni (chestnuts) and twinkling trees. Below are some of our Christmas market favourites; www.wien.info lists exact dates and times.
Rathausplatz A whopper of a tree, 150 stalls and kid-pleasing activities from cookie-baking workshops to pony rides, all set against the atmospheric backdrop of the neo-Gothic Rathaus.
Schönbrunn Shop for nutcrackers, crib figurines and puppets at this handicraft market in the palace courtyard, with loads of events for the kids, and daily classical concerts at 6pm weekdays and 2pm weekends.
Spittelberg The cobbled lanes of this Biedermeier quarter set the scene for this market, beloved of the Viennese, where stalls sell quality arts and crafts.
Altes AKH Christmas Market OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP A favourite of students, this small market occupies a corner of the Altes AKH university’s largest courtyard. There are farm animals and a horse-drawn sleigh for the kids.
Altwiener Markt OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( www.altwiener-markt.at) Choirs, puppet shows and storytelling for the little ones, and high-quality Austrian arts and crafts evoke an old-world feel at this market on Freyung.
Where to Shop
Kärntner Strasse The Innere Stadt’s main shopping street and a real crowd puller.
Kohlmarkt A river of high-end glitz, flowing into a magnificent Hofburg view.
Neubau Track down the city’s hottest designers along boutique-clogged streets like Kirchengasse, Lindengasse and Neubaugasse.
Mariahilfer Strasse Vienna’s mile of high-street style, with big names and crowds.
Freihausviertel Lanes packed with home-grown fashion, design and speciality food stores, south of Naschmarkt.
Theobaldgasse Hole-in-the-wall shops purvey everything from fair-trade fashion to organic food.
NEED TO KNOW
Opening Hours
Most shops open between 9am and 6.30pm Monday to Friday and until 5pm on Saturday. Some have extended hours on Thursday or Friday until around 8pm or 9pm.
Window Shopping Online
» 7tm (www.7tm.at) For the lowdown on fashion and design in Neubau.
» Guided Vienna (www.guided-vienna.com) Pin down the city’s hottest fashion and design by district.
» Tourist Info Wien (www.wien.info) Takes a comprehensive look at shopping in Vienna by theme and neighbourhood.
» Spotted by Locals (www.spottedbylocals.com/vienna) Up-to-the-minute recommendations written by locals.
» Unlike Vienna (http://unlike.net/vienna) Has its ears to the ground for the latest shopping trends.
Tax-Free Shopping
» Mehrwertsteuer (MWST; value-added tax) is set at 20% for most goods.
» All non-EU visitors are entitled to a refund of the MWST on purchases over €75.01. To claim the tax, a tax-refund cheque must be filled out by the shop at the time of purchase, which must then be stamped by border officials when you leave the EU.
» Check www.globalblue.com for more details about how to obtain a refund.
Bargaining
Bargaining is a no-no in shops, although you can certainly haggle when buying secondhand. It’s a must at the Flohmarkt (flea markets).
Shopping by Neighbourhood
»The Hofburg & Around A nostalgic backstreet romp reveals fine porcelain, hat shops and one of Europe’s best auction houses.
»Stephansdom & the Historic Centre Upper-crust Graben and Kohlmarkt fan into side-streets hiding Austrian design stores, jewellers and confectioners.
»Karlsplatz & Around Naschmarkt A picnic-basket banquet at the Naschmarkt and the Freihausviertel’s idiosyncratic galleries, boutiques and speciality stores.
»The Museum District & Neubau Vienna’s creative trailblazer – streets ahead of other neighbourhoods when it comes to fashion and design.
»Alsergrund & the University District Farm-fresh goods at Freyung Market, delis and chocolatiers in the ever-so-grand Palais Ferstel.
»Prater & East of the Danube Karmelitermarkt and Praterstrasse for its growing crop of future-focused galleries, boutiques and design stores.
