SIGHTS

KARLSKIRCHE CHURCH

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STAATSOPER CONCERT VENUE

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OTTO WAGNER BUILDINGS LANDMARK

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(06, Linke Wienzeile & Köstlergasse; Kettenbrückengasse) A problem zone due to flooding, the Wien River needed regulating in the late 19th century. At the same time, Otto Wagner had visions of turning the area between Karlsplatz and Schönbrunn into a magnificent boulevard. The vision blurred and the reality is a gushing, concrete- bottomed creek and a couple of attractive Wagner houses on the Linke Wienzeile.

Majolika-Haus at No 40 (1899) is the prettiest as it’s completely covered in glazed ceramic to create flowing floral motifs on the facade. The second of these Jugendstil masterpieces is a corner house at No 38, with reliefs from Kolo Moser and shapely bronze figures from Othmar Schimkowitz. Nearby is a third house, simpler than these, at Köstlergasse 3 and, finally, you can put Wagner’s functionality to the test by descending into his Kettenbrückengasse U-Bahn station.

NASCHMARKT MARKET

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(www.wienernaschmarkt.eu; 06, Linke Wienzeile/Rechte Wienzeile, btwn Getreidemarkt & Kettenbrückengasse; 6am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) Vienna’s famous market and eating strip began life as a farmers market in the 18th century, when the fruit market on Freyung was moved here. Interestingly, a law passed in 1793 said that fruit and vegetables arriving in town by cart had to be sold on Naschmarkt, while anything brought in by boat could be sold from the decks.

The fruits of the Orient poured in, the predecessors of the modern-day sausage stand were erected and sections were set aside for coal, wood and farming tools and machines. Officially, it became known as Naschmarkt (‘munch market’) in 1905, a few years after Otto Wagner bedded the Wien River down in its open-topped stone and concrete sarcophagus. This Otto Wagnerian horror was a blessing for Naschmarkt, because it created space to expand. A close shave came in 1965 when there were plans to tear it down – it was saved, and today the Naschmarkt is not only the place to shop for food but has an antique market each Saturday.

AKADEMIE DER BILDENDEN KÜNSTE MUSEUM

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(Academy of Fine Arts; www.akademiegalerie.at; 01, Schillerplatz 3; adult/under 19yr €8/free; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun; Museumsquartier, Karlsplatz, D, 1, 2 Kärntner Ring/Oper) The Akademie der Bildenden Künste is an often underrated art space. Its gallery concentrates on the classic Flemish, Dutch and German painters, and includes important figures such as Hieronymus Bosch, Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Rubens, Titian, Francesco Guardi and Cranach the Elder, to mention a handful.

The supreme highlight is Bosch’s impressive and gruesome Triptych of the Last Judgement altarpiece (1504–08), with the banishment of Adam and Eve on the left panel and the horror of Hell in the middle and right panels. The building itself has an attractive facade and was designed by Theo­phil Hansen (1813–91), of Parlament fame. It still operates as an art school and is famous for turning down Adolf Hitler twice and accepting Egon Schiele (though the latter was happy to leave as quickly as possible). Directly in front of the academy is a statue of Friedrich Schiller, 18th-century German playwright.

Hour-long tours (€3, in German only) take place at 10.30am every Sunday. Audio guides cost €2.

GENERALI FOUNDATION GALLERY

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( 504 98 80; www.gfound.or.at; 04, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 15; adult/child €6/3; 11am-6pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Thu; Karlsplatz, Taubstummengasse, 1, 62 Paulanergasse) The Generali Foundation is a fine gallery that picks and chooses exhibition pieces from its vast collection – numbering around 1400 – to create new themes. The majority of its ensemble covers conceptual and performance art from the mid- to late 20th century. The entrance to the exhibition hall is towards the back of a residential passageway.

Guided tours (€3, in German) take place at 6pm on Thursday. Tuesday is free for students, and from 6pm Thursday entry costs €3 for everyone.

HAUS DES MEERES MUSEUM

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(www.haus-des-meeres.at; 06, Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz 1; adult/child €14.20/6.50; 9am-6pm Fri-Wed, to 9pm Thu; Neubaugasse) What the ‘House of the Sea’ lacks is the chance for visitors to spring into the shark tank for some thrashing, but a staff member does just that at 6pm on Thursday. While the museum is unlikely to blow you away instantly, it is an interesting glimpse into the world of lizards, sharks, crocodiles, snakes, fish and creepy-crawlies.

The shark and piranha feeding sessions at 3pm Wednesday and Sunday are strong draws, and another is the reptile feeding at 10am Sunday and 7pm Thursday. There’s a glass tropical house filled with lithe monkeys and a small rainforest. It occupies the inside of a Flakturm, giving you a chance to see the interior of one of these monoliths.

HAYDNHAUS HOUSE MUSEUM

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(www.wienmuseum.at; 06, Haydngasse 19; adult/under 19yr €4/free; 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Tue-Sun; Zieglergasse) Though modest, the exhibition in Haydn’s last residence was revamped in 2009 and focuses on Vienna as well as London during the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Haydn lived in Vienna during the heady times of Napoleon’s occupation. An Austrian composer prominent in the classical period, he was most celebrated for his 104 symphonies and 68 string quartets. The small garden, open to the public, is modelled on the original.

THIRD MAN PRIVATE COLLECTION MUSEUM

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(www.3mpc.net; 04, Pressgasse 25; adult/child €7.50/4; 2-6pm Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) The hours of this private museum may be limited, but fans of the quintessential film about Vienna from 1948 (voted best British film of the 20th century by the British Film Institute) will enjoy perusing the posters, The Third Man paraphernalia and the other 3000 or so objects on show here.

Stills on the walls illustrate the work of Australian-born cinematographer Robert Krasker, who received an Oscar for this film. The museum indirectly covers aspects of Vienna before and after ‘Harry Lime Time’ as well as the film itself.

KUNSTHALLE PROJECT SPACE GALLERY

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(www.kunsthallewien.at; 04, Treitlstrasse 2; 1pm-midnight Tue-Sat, 1-7pm Sun & Mon; Karlsplatz) F Once the Kunsthalle had taken up its new residence in the MuseumsQuartier, this glass cube was built on the site. Its doors were thrown open in 2001 to temporary exhibitions of up-and-coming artists. The website tells you what’s on (and any variation in times). After viewing the exhibition, chill out at the Kunsthallencafé next door.

SCHUBERT STERBEWOHNUNG HOUSE MUSEUM

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(www.wienmuseum.at; 04, Kettenbrückengasse 6; adult/under 19yr €4/free; 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Wed & Thu; Kettenbrückengasse) Here, in his brother’s apartment, Franz Schubert spent his dying days (40 to be precise) in 1828. While dying of either typhoid fever or syphilis he continued to compose, scribbling out a string of piano sonatas and his last work, Der Hirt auf dem Felsen (The Shepherd on the Rock).

The apartment (Schubert’s Death Apartment) is fairly bereft of personal effects but does document these final days with some interesting Schubi knick-knacks and sounds.

STADTBAHN PAVILLONS LANDMARK

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(www.wienmuseum.at; 04, Karlsplatz; adult/under 19yr €4/free; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct; Karlsplatz) Peeking above the Resselpark at Karlsplatz are two of Otto Wagner’s finest designs, the Stadtbahn Pavillons. Built in 1898 at a time when Wagner was assembling Vienna’s first public transport system (1893–1902), the pavilions are gorgeous examples of Jugendstil, with floral motifs and gold trim on a structure of steel and marble.

The west pavilion now holds an exhibit on Wagner’s most famous works, the Kirche am Steinhof (Click here) and Postsparkasse, which fans of Jugendstil will love. The eastern pavilion is now home to Club U.

EATING

TONGUES DELI €

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(www.tongues.at; 06, Theobaldgasse 16; lunch mains €3.60; 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat; ; Museumsquartier) S DJs can sometimes be found on the decks at this groovy record-shop–cum-deli, where you can pop in for a healthy organic lunch, electro on vinyl or some locally sourced cheese, salami, honey and wood-oven bread. Wholesome day specials range from homemade pizza to veggie dishes like courgette-feta pasta bakes.

URBANEK DELI €

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(04, Naschmarkt 46; ham with bread around €4; 9am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-6.30pm Fri, 7.30am-4pm Sat; Karlsplatz) S Stepping inside Urbanek is to enter a world of cured meats in all their different varieties – smoked, salted, cooked or raw. The atmosphere is rarefied but relaxed as you squeeze into a corner and enjoy a glass of wine (about €5) and perhaps delicately cut slices of Mangalitza pig – a woolly variety prized for its delicious ham.

The roast beef is organic, as are many other offerings here, and the selection of cheeses is just as good. Although there’s scarcely enough room to swing a cat inside, it’s well worth finding an empty few square inches to enjoy some of the finest cuts around.

BREAKFAST CLUB BREAKFAST €

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(04, Schleifmühlgasse 12-14; breakfasts €5.50-6.50; 8am-2pm Mon-Fri, to 3pm Sat & Sun; ; Kettenbrückengasse) Mix and match from an international range of breakfasts at this compact New York–style breakfast joint on lively Schleifmühlgasse. The ‘Vienna Special’ of bread roll, honey, egg, seasonal fruit and Melange (milky coffee) is a fine choice, but is completely outdone by the ‘BC Royal’ (salmon rolls, onions, hard-boiled egg, toast and Sekt).

Kids will also love it here: there’s a small bar especially designed for the little ones, and a separate menu, too.

CHANG ASIAN NOODLES ASIAN €

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( 961 92 12; www.chang.at; 04, Waaggasse 1; midday menus €6.50-7.50, mains €7.80-15; 11.30am-11.30pm Mon-Sat, to 10pm Sun; ; Taubstummengasse) This buzzy Asian diner is bright, open, uncomplicated and highly relaxed, while the service is quick and attentive. Noodles (either fried or in a soup) are the mainstay of a menu spanning the Asian continent (at least from China to Singapore) – expect plenty of chicken, prawns (both baby and tiger) and vegetable choices. Everything is available for takeaway.

CORNS N’ POPS BREAKFAST, CAFE €

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(www.cornsnpops.com; 06, Gumpendorfer Strasse 37; snacks & light meals €1.50-5.50; 7.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat; ; Kettenbrückengasse) This little cafe is a fine pick for a wholesome bite on the hoof. Besides having a great DIY muesli bar, it’ll rustle up tasty bagels, soups, smoothies, waffles and muffins, with an emphasis on fair-trade and organic ingredients. Day specials from couscous to curries go for around €5.

DELICIOUS MONSTER FAST FOOD €

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( 920 44 54; www.deliciousmonster.at; 04, Gusshausstrasse 12 ; sandwiches & salads €6, mains €8.50; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri; Karls­platz) There’s always a good buzz at this lunchtime snackeria. Art-slung walls and gold banquettes create a funky backdrop for deeply satisfying homemade burgers (try the Styrian beef with pumpkin chutney), wraps, baguettes and salads. Find it tucked behind the Karlskirche.

NASCHMARKT DELI CAFE €

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(www.naschmarkt-deli.at; 04, Naschmarkt 421; breakfast €7-9, snacks €4-9, mains €8-13.50; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat; Karlsplatz) Among the enticing stands along the Vienna River, Naschmarkt Deli has an edge on the others for its delicious snacks. Sandwiches, falafel, big baguettes and chunky lentil soups fill the menu, but much space is dedicated to a heady array of breakfasts. Come Saturday morning this glass box overflows with punters waiting in anticipation for the Turkish or English breakfast.

STEMAN AUSTRIAN €€

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( 597 85 09; www.steman.at; 06, Otto-Bauer-Gasse 7; mains €6-14.50; 11am- midnight Mon-Fri; Zieglergasse) Run by the same folk as Café Jelinek, Steman serves good honest Austrian food in a nicely restored, high-ceilinged interior, with a few tables outside in summer. The mood is laid-back, the service friendly and the menu packed with classics like goulash and Käsespätzle (cheese noodles). The €7.10 two-course lunch is a bargain.

UBL AUSTRIAN €€

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( 587 64 37; 04, Pressgasse 26; mains €9.50-18; noon-2pm & 6pm-midnight Wed-Sun; Kettenbrückengasse) This much-loved Beisl (bistro pub) is a favourite of the Wieden crowd. Its menu is heavily loaded with Viennese classics, such as Schinkenfleckerl, Schweinsbraten (roast pork) and four types of schnitzel, and is enhanced with seasonal cuisine throughout the year. You could do worse than finish the hefty meal off with a stomach-settling plum schnapps. The tree-shaded garden is wonderful in summer.

MOTTO FUSION €€

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( 587 06 72; www.motto.at; 05, Schönbrunner Strasse 30; mains €9-29; 6pm-2am Mon-Thu & Sun, to 4am Fri & Sat; Pilgramgasse) The darling of Margareten’s dining scene is this theatrical lounge-style restaurant, which is all clever backlighting, high banquettes and DJ beats. Asian, Austrian and Mediterranean flavours are all in the mix, with well-executed dishes from red Thai curry to the signature fillet steak with chocolate-chilli sauce. Motto is very popular, particularly with the gay crowd; reservations are recommended.

Entrance is through the forbidding chrome door on Rüdigergasse.

UMAR SEAFOOD €€

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( 587 04 56; www.umarfisch.at; 04, Naschmarkt 76; midday menu €13, mains €15-32; 11am-midnight Mon-Sat; Karlsplatz) Umar is one of the best fish restaurants in Vienna, serving fresh seafood imported from Italy and Turkey at its large Naschmarkt stall. Choose between whole fish, mussels in white-wine sauce and giant shrimps fried in herb butter. Seriously good wines from the Wachau round off a delicious eating experience.

AMACORD AUSTRIAN, INTERNATIONAL €€

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( 587 47 09; 04, Rechte Wienzeile 15; 1-/2-course lunch €7.30/8.80, mains €15-19; 10am-2am; ; Kettenbrückengasse, Karls­platz) Friendly staff keep the good vibes and affordable food coming at this cosy, vaulted cafe. Viennese classics are mixed in with a healthy range of Italian pastas, the odd curry and ragout, and an extensive salads selection. Trying to find a seat on a Saturday morning is a fruitless enterprise. Eat off-peak here.

ZUM ALTEN FASSL AUSTRIAN €€

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( 544 42 98; www.zum-alten-fassl.at; 05, Ziegelofengasse 37; midday menus €5.70-7.30, mains €7.50-18.50; 11.30am-3pm & 5pm-1am Mon-Fri, 5pm-1am Sat, noon-3pm & 5pm-1am Sun; Pilgramgasse) With its private garden amid residential houses and polished wooden interior (typical of a well-kept Beisl), Zum Alten Fassl is worth the trip south of the centre just for a drink. But while here sample the Viennese favourites and regional specialities, like Eierschwammerl (chanterelles) and Blunzengröstl (a potato, bacon, onion and blood sausage fry-up). When it’s in season, Zanderfilet (fillet of zander) is the chef’s favourite.

Between 1974 and 1982 the singer Falco lived upstairs in this building – a plaque marks the spot.

RA’MIEN ASIAN €€

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( 585 47 98; www.ramien.at; 06, Gumpendorfer Strasse 9; mains €7-17.50; 11am-midnight Tue-Sun; ; Museumsquartier) Picture a minimalist grey-white room and lots of bright, young hip things bent over piping-hot Thai, Japanese, Chinese and Vietnamese noodle soups and rice dishes and you have Ra’mien. Ra’mien fills up quickly at night, so it’s worth booking ahead; the lounge bar downstairs has regular DJs and stays open until at least 2am.

KOJIRO JAPANESE €€

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( 586 62 33; 04, Kühnplatz 4; sushi sets €8-17; 11am-6.15pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2.30pm Sat; Kettenbrückengasse, Karlsplatz) Wiener who are serious about their sushi rave about this tiny nosh spot near the Naschmarkt, which rolls out brilliantly fresh sushi and sashimi. Enough said.

MILL AUSTRIAN €€

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( 966 40 73; www.mill32.at; 06, Millergasse 32; mains €8-17.50; 11.30am-3pm & 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sun; Westbahnhof) This bistro, with a hidden courtyard for summer days, still feels like a local secret. Scarlet brick walls and wood floors create a warm backdrop for spot-on seasonal food such as chanterelle cannelloni and Styrian chicken salad drizzled in pumpkin-seed oil. The two-course lunch is a snip at €6.90.

GERGELY’S STEAKHOUSE €€

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( 544 07 67; www.gergelys.at; 05, Schlossgasse 21; steaks €20-32; 6pm-1am Tue-Sat; Pilgramgasse) The flagship of the four eateries around Schlossplatz, Gergely’s is inside a 14th-century vaulted cellar and focuses exclusively on steaks made from quality beef sourced locally and internationally, served with sauces and accompaniments. The inner courtyard with tables set up under the trees is ideal for summer dining.

TANCREDI AUSTRIAN €€

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( 941 00 48; www.tancredi.at; 04, Grosse Neugasse 5; lunch menus €8.80-16.80, mains €14-20; 11.30am-2.30pm Mon, 11.30am-2.30pm & 6pm-midnight Tue-Fri, 6pm-midnight Sat; ; Taubstummengasse) This former Beisl serves lovingly prepared regional and fish specialities, seasonal fare, organic dishes and an extensive range of Austrian wines. The harmonious surroundings are the icing on the cake: warm, pastel-yellow walls, stripped-back wooden floors, fittings from yesteryear and a tree-shaded garden that fills up quickly in summer. The entrance is on Rubengasse.

AROMAT INTERNATIONAL €€

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( 913 24 53; 04, Margaretenstrasse 52; menus €7.90, mains €10-15; 5-11pm Tue-Sun; Kettenbrückengasse) This funky little eatery serves fusion cooking with a strong emphasis on Upper Austrian and Vietnamese cuisine. It has an open kitchen and often caters for those with an intolerance to wheat and gluten. The charming surroundings feature simple formica tables, 1950s fixtures, a blackboard menu and one huge glass frontage. Personable staff help to create a convivial, barlike atmosphere.

PICCINI PICCOLO GOURMET ITALIAN €€

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( 587 52 54; www.piccini.at; 06, Linke Wienzeile 4; mains €8-19; 11am-10pm Mon-Sat; Karlsplatz) ‘Gourmet’ in the true sense of the word, Piccini has the finest antipasti restaurant in town, with a huge assortment of antipasti rolls, fish treats and stuffed vegetables. It also knows its Brunello from its Vino Nobile, which, with 60 varieties of wine available, is a good thing. Its shop next door has been selling imported Italian foods since 1856.

From noon to 2pm Monday to Friday, the day pasta special goes for €4 at the bar.

HAAS BEISL AUSTRIAN €€

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( 586 25 52; www.haasbeisl.at; 05, Margaretenstrasse 74; mains €8-16; 11am-11pm Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat, to 9pm Sun; Pilgramgasse) Warm and woody, this traditional Margareten Beisl doesn’t have the revamped, streamlined culinary edges of a neo-Beisl, but Haas is absolutely genuine and a place where you can enjoy decent food and soak up a very local atmosphere. Classics such as offal, sweetmeats, goulash and dumplings are prepared the way your grandmother might have done them.

Above the bar are football (soccer) trophies won by the gentlemen players at Haas who have exceeded their own football prime (but not by much, as the trophies testify). The toilets have an ‘art’ touch.

SILBERWIRT AUSTRIAN €€

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( 544 49 07; www.silberwirt.at; 05, Schlossgasse 21; mains €8-16.50; noon-midnight Mon-Sun; ; Pilgramgasse) This atmospheric neo-Beisl, another in the four eateries on Schlossplatz, offers traditional Viennese cuisine, mostly using organic and/or local produce. A meal might begin with, say, Waldviertel sheep cheese salad with walnuts and poppy seeds, followed by trout with herby potatoes and almond butter, and Palatschinken (pancakes) with homemade apricot jam.

A dedicated kids menu appeals to little appetites. Dine alfresco in the tree-shaded garden in summer.

NENI MIDDLE EASTERN €€

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( 585 20 20; www.neni.at; 06, Naschmarkt 510; breakfasts €5-9, salads & snacks €4.50-10.50, mains €10.50-15; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat; ; Kettenbrückengasse) This industro-cool glass cube combines a cafe, bar and restaurant where food has mostly a Middle Eastern focus. Dishes such as caramelised aubergine with ginger and chilli are served alongside tuna steaks in a seasame-pepper crust with wasabi mash. Tables fill up fast most nights, so reserve ahead or drop by outside prime time. Breakfast is served until 2pm.

SAIGON ASIAN €€

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( 585 63 95; www.saigon.at; 06, Getreidemarkt 7; lunch menus €7.20, mains €9-17.50; 11.30am-11pm Mon-Sun; Karlsplatz) Saigon was one of the first Asian restaurants in Vienna and remains one of the best. Expect to find a large selection of rice and noodle dishes, including a delicious Pho Tai Bo (beef noodle soup). A second Saigon is conveniently located in Ottakring not far from the Brunnenmarkt.

ON ASIAN €€

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( 585 49 00; www.restaurant-on.at; 05, Wehrgasse 8; lunch menus €7.60-8.90, mains €9-16.30; noon-midnight Mon-Sat, to 10.30pm Sun; Pilgramgasse) The vibe is relaxed and friendly at this colourful Austro-Asian fusion restaurant. Order from a menu that plays up seasonal Chinese flavours and Austrian produce, from tuna tartare with pumpkin-seed oil to trout with ginger and spicy duck expertly matched with Wachau wines. The small, private garden is lovely in summer; reserve in the evening.

VAPIANO ITALIAN €€

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( 581 12 12; 01, Theobaldgasse 19; mains €7.50-9.50; 11am-midnight Mon-Sat, noon-11pm Sun; ; Museumsquartier) This eat-in Italian cafeteria-style chain whips up pizza, homemade pasta and salads right before your eyes. Collect a card at the door, make your choice at one of the counters, then simply pay at the door when you leave. The downside is that the eating is often shoulder-to-shoulder and the noise level can make spaghetti of your nerve endings.

COLLIO ITALIAN €€€

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( 589 18 133; www.dastriest.at; 04, Wiedner Hauptstrasse 12; mains €18-28, 2-course lunch menus €14.80, 5-course menus €49.80; noon-2.30pm & 6-10pm Mon-Fri, 6-10pm Sat; ; Kettenbrückengasse, Karlsplatz) Tucked inside the Das Triest hotel, this restaurant has a lounge vibe, mellow sounds, a slinky Terence Conran–designed interior and a flower-strewn courtyard for warm-weather dining. Collio’s menu is predominantly Italian but wades across a broad and interesting culinary lagoon. Seasonal flavours shine in specialities such as homemade gnocchi with veal and artichokes and roast saddle of venison with parsley roots.

DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

CAFÉ SPERL COFFEE HOUSE

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(www.cafesperl.at; 06, Gumpendorfer Strasse 11; 7am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm Sun; ; Museumsquartier, Kettenbrückengasse) With its gorgeous Jugendstil fittings, grand dimensions, cosy booths and unhurried air, Sperl is one of the finest coffee houses in Vienna. And that’s to say nothing of a menu that features Sperl Torte, a mouth-watering mix of almonds and chocolate cream. Grab a slice and a newspaper, order a strong coffee, and join the rest of the patrons people-watching and daydreaming.

The food is good, too, with snacks and hearty Austrian mains (€7 to €11) staving off hunger.

ALT WIEN CAFE

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(www.altwien.at; 04, Schleifmühlgasse 23; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) The enticing aroma of coffee wafts from Alt Wien. This purveyor of freshly roasted and ground beans does a brisk trade in 30 different kinds of coffee, from Brazilian to Nepalese, organic and fair-trade blends. Sip a cup at the little bar out the back.

PHIL BAR, CAFE

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(www.phil.info; 06, Gumpendorfer Strasse 10-12; 5pm-1am Mon, 9am-1am Tue-Sun; Museumsquartier, Kettenbrückengasse) A retro bar reminiscent of an East Berlin Lokal, Phil attracts a Bohemian crowd happy to squat on kitsch furniture your grandma used to own. Half the establishment is store rather than bar; TVs from the ’70s, DVDs, records and books are for sale, as is all the furniture. Staff are super-friendly and the vibe is as relaxed as can be.

CAFÉ DRECHSLER COFFEE HOUSE

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(www.cafedrechsler.at; Linke Wienzeile 22; 23hr, closed 2-3am; ; Kettenbrückengasse) One of the liveliest coffee houses in town, Drechsler reopened with a smash after extensive renovations (Sir Terence Conran worked his magic with polished marble bar and table tops, Bauhaus light fixtures and whitewashed timber panels – stylish yet still distinctly Viennese). As well as the usual coffee-house suspects, its Gulasch (goulash) is legendary.

In the evening, the tunes the DJ spins seemingly change every few hours and always keep the vibe upbeat and hip.

TANZCAFÉ JENSEITS BAR, CLUB

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(www.tanzcafe-jenseits.com; 06, Nelkengasse 3; 8pm-4am Tue-Sat; Neubaugasse) Bordello meets Bohemian at this brothel turned bar, where soft lighting, red velvet and gilt mirrors keep the mood intimate. Jenseits has left its insalubrious past behind and today packs in media and arty types, who jostle for space on its tiny dance floor. The mercurial DJs flick from soul to trashy pop tunes in the blink of an eye.

SEKT COMPTOIR WINE BAR

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(www.sektcomptoir.at; 04, Schleif­mühlgasse 19; 5-11pm Mon-Fri, noon-6pm Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) Oooh, sparkly. Szigeti vineyard in Burgenland, which produces a leading Austrian Sekt (sparkling wine), serves its own brand only at this tiny, wood-panelled wine bar. As it’s located just a few blocks from the Naschmarkt, shoppers with bulging grocery bags often spill onto the sidewalk enjoying a tipple or four.

It rarely offers much elbow room but the, er, bubbly spirit is so intoxicating that most just chuckle and squish with a wide grin. Note the early closing times – and its shop (Schleifmühlgasse 23; 10.30am-6.30pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) selling bottles a few doors down.

PUFF BAR

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(http://puff-bar.at; 06, Giardigasse 10; 6pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; Museumsquartier, Kettenbrückengasse) The name gives the game away: Puff was formerly a brothel. Thanks to TLC from Walking Chair Design Studio, it has been reborn as this uberstylish bar, with bunches of tubular lanterns sprouting from the ceiling and cocktail machines bring a dash of magic to the mixology. The highballs are terrific, as are proseccos blended with fresh fruit from Naschmarkt.

CAFÉ JELINEK COFFEE HOUSE

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(www.steman.at; 06, Otto-Bauer-Gasse 5; 9am-9pm; Zieglergasse) With none of the polish or airs and graces of some other coffee houses, this shabbily grand cafe is Viennese through and through. The wood-burning stove, picture-plastered walls and faded velvet armchairs draw people from all walks of life with their cocoon-like warmth. Take the lead of locals and linger over freshly roasted coffee, cake and the daily papers.

KUNSTHALLENCAFÉ BAR, CAFE

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(www.kunsthallencafe.at; 04, Treitl­strasse 2; 10am-2am; Karlsplatz) The Kunst­hallencafé carries plenty of ‘cool’ clout and attracts a relaxed, arty crowd with its DJs and close proximity to the Kunsthalle Project Space. The big sofas go quickly, but there are plenty of small tables perfect for an intimate evening, and in summer the terrace (with more couches) is one enormous outdoor lounge.

ZWEITBESTER BAR

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(www.zweitbester.at; 04, Heumühlgasse 2; 11am-2am; Kettenbrückengasse) This industro-cool bar located bang in the heart of the Freihausviertel hosts DJ nights as well as an original roster of events, from ‘concerts in the loo’ to ‘dish tennis’, ping-pong with a party twist. There’s a pavement terrace for imbibing on summer nights.

CAFÉ RÜDIGERHOF COFFEE HOUSE

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(05, Hamburgerstrasse 20; 9am-2am; Kettenbrückengasse, Pilgramgasse) Rüdigerhof’s facade is a glorious example of Jugendstil architecture, and the furniture and fittings inside could be straight out of an I Love Lucy set. The atmosphere is homely and familiar and the terrace huge and shaded. On Saturday mornings it fills up quickly with Naschmarkt shoppers.

BARFLY’S CLUB COCKTAIL BAR

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(www.castillo.at; 06, Esterhazygasse 33 ; 8pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; Neubaugasse, Zieglergasse) Bringing a splash of Manhattan-style sophistication to Vienna, Barfly’s is a softly lit bar, justly famous for its 500-strong cocktail list and intimate ambience, which attracts a regular crowd of journalists and actors. At around €10 a pop, drinks aren’t cheap, but they are among the city’s best.

AKRAP COFFEE

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(www.akrapcoffee.com; 06, Königsklostergasse 7; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; Museumsquartier) This stylish espresso bar on Theobaldgasse is where Wiener go for freshly roasted coffee, teas, juices and homemade cakes.

CAFÉ SAVOY GAY

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(www.savoy.at; 06, Linke Wienzeile 36; noon-2am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat; ; Kettenbrückengasse) Café Savoy is an established gay haunt that has a more traditional cafe feel to it. The clientele is generally very mixed on a Saturday – mainly due to the proximity of the Naschmarkt – but at other times it’s filled with men of all ages.

EBERT’S COCKTAIL BAR COCKTAIL BAR

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(www.eberts.at; 06, Gumpendorfer Strasse 51; 6pm-2am Sun-Thu, 7pm-4am Fri & Sat; Neubaugasse, Kettenbrückengasse) Expert bartenders shake it up: all the mixologists here double as instructors at the bartending academy next door. The cocktail list is novel-esque, the vibe stylish, modern minimalism, the tunes jazzy to electronic, and on weekends you’ll barely squeeze in. Bring your English Cinema Haydn ticket in anytime and receive a cocktail for €5.50.

ELEKTRO GÖNNER BAR

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(www.elektro-g.at; 06, Mariahilfer Strasse 101; 7pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; Zieglergasse) Elektro Gönner is an unpretentious bar opened by architects (and attracting plenty from the profession). Much of the interior is uncomplicated and bare, aside from the occasional art installation in the back room, and DJs spin mostly techno and electro. The bar hides at the back of a courtyard off Mariahilfer Strasse.

LUTZ BAR, CLUB

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(www.lutz-bar.at; 06, Mariahilfer Strasse 3; from 8am Mon-Fri, from 9am Sat, from 10am Sun; ; Museumsquartier) A cafe and restaurant by day, by night this bar buzzes with cocktail sippers. Caramel leather armchairs and clean lines create a contemporary backdrop for a frozen mojito or lemongrass fizz – try to snag a seat at the floor-to-ceiling windows gazing down to Mariahilfer Strasse. On weekends a subterranean club opens from 9.30pm, playing anything from house to disco.

SCHIKANEDER BAR

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(www.schikaneder.at; 04, Margaretenstrasse 22-24; 6pm-4am; Kettenbrückengasse) Most of the colour in Schikaneder comes from the regularly projected movies splayed across one of its white walls – the students and arty crowd who frequent this grungy bar dress predominantly in black. But that’s not to detract from the bar’s atmosphere, which exudes energy well into the wee small hours of the morning.

MON AMI BAR

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(www.monami.at; 06, Theobaldgasse 9; 6pm-2am Wed-Sat; Museumsquartier) Don’t let the dog- and cat-grooming sign fool you: this former pet-grooming salon morphed into a lovely ’60s-style bar. It mixes excellent cocktails, serves a short but decent beer, wine and snacks list, and attracts a laid-back and unpretentious crowd. DJ Roman Schöny regularly works the decks.

TOP KINO BAR BAR

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(www.topkino.at; 06, Rahlgasse 1; 3pm-2am; Museumsquartier) Occupying the foyer of the Top Kino cinema, Top Kino Bar is a pleasantly relaxed place that attracts a fashionable alternative crowd. The decor is highly retro, and there are tunes to match the furniture. Kozel, one of the Czech Republic’s better pilsners, is lined up against Austria’s finest lagers.

MANGO BAR GAY

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(06, Laimgrubengasse 3; 9pm-4am; Kettenbrückengasse) Mango attracts a young, often men-only, gay crowd with good music, friendly staff and plenty of mirrors to check out yourself and others. It usually serves as a kick-start for a big night out on the town.

ROXY CLUB

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(www.roxyclub.org; 04, Operngasse 24; 11pm-4am Thu-Sat; Karlsplatz, D, 1, 2 Kärntner Ring/Oper) A seminal club for years, Roxy still manages to run with the clubbing pack, and sometimes leads the way. DJs from Vienna’s electronica scene regularly guest on the turntables and most nights it’s hard to find a space on the small dance floor. Expect a crowded, but very good, night out here.

CLUB U BAR, CLUB

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(www.club-u.at; 04, Künstlerhauspassage; 9pm-4am; Karlsplatz) Club U occupies one of Otto Wagner’s Stadtbahn Pavillons on Karlsplatz. It’s a small, student-infested bar-club with regular DJs and a wonderful outdoor seating area overlooking the pavilions and park.

WIEDEN BRÄU MICROBREWERY

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(www.wieden-braeu.at; 04, Waaggasse 5; 11.30am-midnight; ; Taubstummengasse) Helles, Märzen and hemp beers are brewed year-round at this upbeat microbrewery, and there are a few seasonal choices, including a ginger beer. Tipples are matched with Austrian pub grub like schnitzel and goulash. Retreat to the garden in summer.

AUX GAZELLES CLUB

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(www.auxgazelles.at; 06, Rahlgasse 5; 11pm-5am Thu-Sat; Museumsquartier) Aux Gazelles’ club bar is beautifully Moorish and filled with beautiful people. The music is an eclectic mix of smooth ethnic sounds, and there are plenty of dim corners and low, comfy couches to escape to if so desired. The rest of this gigantic club venue features a restaurant, bar and deli, and there’s even a hammam (oriental steam bath).

Aux Gazelles is one of the few clubs in town where a dress code is enforced.

ORANGE ONE BAR

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(www.orange-one.at; 04, Margaretenstrasse 26; 4pm-2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) Once a down-at-heel Gastehaus (guesthouse), this place received a complete makeover and reinvented itself as Orange One, a modern bar with a distinct retro feel and grown-up attitude. DJs play most nights and offbeat films are intermittently projected on the back wall.

CAFÉ WILLENDORF GAY & LESBIAN

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(http://cafe-willendorf.at; 06, Linke Wienzeile 102; 6pm-2am Thu-Sat, to 1am Sun-Wed; Pilgramgasse) This is one of Vienna’s seminal gay and lesbian bars. Housed in the pink Rosa Lila Villa ( 586 8150; www.villa.at; Linke Wienzeile 102, 06; Pilgramgasse), it’s a very popular place to meet for a chat, a drink or a meal. The lovely inner courtyard garden opens for the summer months.

GOODMANN CLUB

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(www.goodmann.at; 04, Rechte Wienzeile 23; 3am-10am Mon-Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) A tiny club attracting clubbers who want to boogie before breakfast, Goodmann serves food upstairs (until 8am) and hides its night owls, who are an eclectic mix of old and young (but always in a merry state), downstairs.

TITANIC CLUB

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(www.titanic.at; 06, Theobaldgasse 11; 11pm-6am Fri & Sat; Museumsquartier) This club is old school, with door check and bouncers (dress reasonably conservatively), but once you’re past these party-poopers it’s time to whoop it up. Two large dance floors soon fill with revellers either looking to pull or dance the night away to electro, techno, hip-hop and R&B. Fun, but not to everyone’s taste.

ENTERTAINMENT

STAATSOPER OPERA

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( 514 44 7880; www.wiener-staatsoper.at; 01, Opernring 2; Karlsplatz, D 1, 2 Kärntner Ring/Oper) The Staatsoper is the premier opera and classical music venue in Vienna. Productions are lavish affairs: the Viennese take their opera very seriously and dress up accordingly. In the interval, be sure to wander around the foyer and refreshment rooms to fully appreciate the gold and crystal interior.

Opera is not performed here in July and August (tours, however, still take place), but its repertoire still includes more than 70 different productions. Tickets can be purchased up to one month in advance (Click here).

MUSIKVEREIN CONCERT VENUE

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( 505 81 90; www.musikverein.at; 01, Bösendorferstrasse 12; Karlsplatz) The Musikverein holds the proud title of the best acoustics of any concert hall in Austria, which the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra makes excellent use of. The interior is suitably lavish and can be visited on the occasional guided tour. Smaller-scale performances are held in the Brahms Saal.

Tickets are available online, by phone or at the box office, which is open 9am to 8pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1pm Saturday. Standard tickets range from €25 to €89, though tickets for the famous New Year’s Eve concert cost anything from €30 to €950. Standing-room tickets are available up to seven weeks in advance and cost €4 to €6; there are no student tickets.

THEATER AN DER WIEN THEATRE

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( 588 85; www.theater-wien.at; 06, Linke Wienzeile 6; Karlsplatz) The Theater an der Wien has hosted some monumental premiere performances, such as Beethoven’s Fidelo, Mozart’s Die Zauberflöte and Strauss Jnr’s Die Fledermaus . These days, besides staging musicals, dance and concerts, the theatre has re-established its reputation for high-quality opera, playing host to one premiere each month.

All tickets (standard and standing) are available online, by phone or from the box office, which is open 10am to 7pm Monday to Saturday. They range in price from €10 to €160. Discounts include €10 to €15 tickets for students on sale 30 minutes before shows, and €7 standing tickets available one hour before performances.

BURG KINO CINEMA

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( 587 84 06; www.burgkino.at; 01, Opernring 19; Museumsquartier, D, 1, 2 Burgring) The Burg Kino is a central cinema that shows only English-language films. It has regular screenings of the The Third Man , Orson Welles’ timeless classic set in post-WWII Vienna. See the website for times.

ENGLISH CINEMA HAYDN CINEMA

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( 587 22 62; www.haydnkino.at; 06, Mariahilfer Strasse 57; Neubaugasse) The Haydn is a comfortable cinema screening mainly mainstream Hollywood-style films in their original language, on three separate screens.

FILMCASINO CINEMA

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( 581 39 00-10; www.filmcasino.at; 05, Margaretenstrasse 78; Kettenbrückengasse) An art-house cinema of some distinction, Filmcasino screens an excellent mix of Asian and European docos and avant-garde short films, along with independent feature-length films from around the world. Its ’50s-style foyer is particularly impressive.

SCHIKANEDER CINEMA

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( 585 28 67; www.schikaneder.at; 04, Margaretenstrasse 24; Kettenbrückengasse) Located next to the bar of the same name, Schikaneder is the darling of Vienna’s alternative cinema scene. The film subject range is quite broad but also highly selective, and art house through and through.

TOP KINO CINEMA

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( 208 30 00; www.topkino.at; 06, Rahlgasse 1; Museumsquartier) Top Kino offers an ever-changing array of European films and documentaries, generally in their original language with German subtitles. It also holds a variety of themed film festivals throughout the year.

SHOPPING

BLÜHENDES KONFEKT CONFECTIONERY

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(www.bluehendes-konfekt.com; 06, Schmalzhofgasse 19; 10am-6.30pm Wed-Fri; Zieglergasse, Westbahnhof) Violets, forest strawberries and cherry blossom, mint and oregano – Michael Diewald makes the most of what grows wild and in his garden to create confectionery that fizzes with seasonal flavour. Peek through to the workshop to see flowers and herbs being deftly transformed into one-of-a-kind bonbons and mini bouquets that are edible works of art.

DÖRTHE KAUFMANN WOMEN’S CLOTHING

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(www.doertekaufmann.com; 04, Kettenbrückengasse 6; 11am-7pm Wed-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) Dörthe is the designer behind the biannual collections presented at this little boutique, which might include anything from French-style bolero jackets to dresses inspired by bold Nigerian colours and patterns. These feature alongside a snug assortment of chunky hand-knitted hats, gloves, scarves and booties, all beautifully made with merino, mohair or alpaca wool and coloured with natural pigments.

MEIN DESIGN ACCESSORIES, FASHION

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(www.mein-design.org; 04, Kettenbrückengasse 6; 11am-6pm Tue-Thu, 11am-7pm Fri, 10am-4pm Sun; Kettenbrückengasse) Boutique owner and designer Ulrike gives young Austrian creatives and designers a platform for showcasing their fresh, innovative fashion and accessories at this boutique-workshop, where the accent is on quality and sustainability. Though displays change every few months, you might find everything from beautifully made children’s clothes to jewellery fashioned from recycled tyres and silk blouses emblazoned with photographs of Vienna icons.

FEINEDINGE CERAMICS

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(www.feinedinge.at; 05, Krongasse 20; 11am-6pm Mon-Wed, to 7.30pm Tue-Fri, to 5pm Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) Sandra Haischberger makes exquisite porcelain that reveals a clean modern aesthetic at her atelier shop. Her range of home accessories, tableware and lighting is minimalistic, but often features sublime details, such as crockery in chalky pastels, filigree lamps that cast exquisite patterns and candle holders embellished with floral and butterfly motifs.

GABARAGE UPCYCLING DESIGN DESIGN

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(www.gabarage.at; 06, Schleifmühlgasse 6; 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, 10am-7pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sat; Taubstummengasse) S Recycled design, ecology and social responsibility underpin the quirky designs at Gabarage. Old bowling pins become vases, rubbish bins get a new life as tables and chairs, advertising tarpaulins morph into bags, and traffic lights are transformed into funky lights. People also get a second shot at life, with job training in various skills through Gabarage’s occupational therapy program.

PICCINI PICCOLO GOURMET FOOD, WINE

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(06, Linke Wienzeile 4; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; Karlsplatz) Piccini stocks only the finest and freshest goods from Italy, all of which are handled with love and care – wines, multitudes of vari­eties of dried pasta, 20-odd different types of salami, olives and oil. It’s also a superb restaurant.

FLO VINTAGE MODE VINTAGE

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(04, Schleifmühlgasse 15a; 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 3.30pm Sat; Kettenbrückengasse) In a city this enamoured of the glamorous past, it’s no less than shocking that there are few true vintage clothing stores in town. The clothes here are fastidiously and beautifully displayed, from pearl-embroidered art nouveau masterpieces to 1950s and ’60s New Look pieces and designer wear of the ’70s and ’80s (alphabetised from Armani to Zegna). Prices (and quality) are high.

GÖTTIN DES GLÜCKS FASHION

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(www.goettindesgluecks.com; 04, Operngasse 32; 11am-6pm Wed-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; Karlsplatz) Austria’s first fair-fashion label conforms to the fair-trade model throughout the production process through relationships with sustainable producers in India, Mauritius and beyond. The result is supple, delicious cotton jerseys, skirts, and shorts for men and women, with the comfort of sleepwear in stylish, casual daywear.

LICHTERLOH HOMEWARES

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(www.lichterloh.com; 06, Gumpendorfer Strasse 15-17; 11am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat; Museumsquartier) This massive, ultracool space is filled with iconic furniture from the 1900s to 1970s, by names such as Eames, Thonet and Mies Van Der Rohe. Even if you’re not planning to lug home a slick Danish sideboard, it’s worth a look at this veritable gallery of modern furniture design.

RAVE UP MUSIC

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(06, Hofmühlgasse 1; 10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat; Pilgramgasse) Friendly staff, loads of new vinyl and a massive collection make a trip to Rave Up a real pleasure. The store specialises in indie and alternative imports from the UK and US, but you’ll find plenty of electronica, hip-hop and retro tunes, and you can listen before you buy, too.

THALIA BOOKS

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(www.thalia.at; 06, Mariahilfer Strasse 99; 9am-7pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu-Fri, to 6pm Sat; Zieglergasse) Vienna’s biggest bookshop, spread over four floors including a cafe, Thalia has an ‘International Bookshop’ at the back of the ground floor, with lots of bestsellers in English and a small selection of books in Spanish, French, Italian and Russian.